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No, you are not compressing pistons, you are only using pressure to force the fluid out. I use the motive power bleeder.

Looks similar to mine, but it requires use of the 12v outlet. Mine is solar. I have two of them, one in my 18 and one in my 19. Both are still working very well. Only issue is on the 18, which is not garaged, the rubber boots are starting to deteriorate. On the 19, which is garaged, no issues.

I use this one Mazda (PE01-14-302A) Oil Filter Cartridge https://a.co/d/09YgD6ui

Every three years.

Given the frigid temps of 10-20 degrees in the morning, I’m thinking of switching back to 0w-20. Anyone else? Can’t recall Delaware being so cold, but here we are, lows around 10 this week and next.

What year is your car and what is the correct part number you used?

It’s the fan to cool the headlights.

42k on my rears 18 sport. Fronts still ok.

Always!

I bought some decent ones off eBay. Have had them on a few years now, hold up well, nice and thick, perfect fit. I think the floor mats were around $80 and rear trunk about $40. I bought two sets for my 18 and 19.

I use this, perfect fit. Hand tighten, then maybe 1/4-1/2 turn. CTA Tools A255 Cap-Type Oil Filter Wrench - 65/67mm x 14 Flute - Professional Grade, Black Finish, Precision-Stamped, Deep-Reach, 3/8-Inch Drive, Oil Filter Wrench https://a.co/d/jjzqiTx

I think if the brake pads are too loose in the brackets you’ll get this sound. Did you compare the pads to the ones you removed?

$9.99. I change it out every 15k miles. A-Premium Engine Air Filter Compatible with Mazda Vehicles - 3 (2012-2018), 3 Sport (2012-2018), 6 (2014-2021), CX-5 (2013-2023) - L4 2.0L 2.5L - Naturally Aspirated Only https://a.co/d/a7A61mx

I have disabled it on my 2019 Honda pilot, but I’m not aware of being able to do it on a Mazda. I purchased an aftermarket device that does it. Hondas with CD are notirious for shudder at highway speeds when the cylinders deactivate, failed torque converters and uneven cylinder wear/buildup...

Until you do. Mazda says the fluid is lifetime, but doesn’t define what lifetime means. It’s good practice to drain and fill it every 30k. It’s easy to do and not expensive. If you plan on keeping the car a long time, I’d do it. Just do do a drain and fill, filter not really necessary.

Maybe it’s your Bluetooth module? Not sure if that is tied into the sound system. These were notorious for draining batteries in certain acuras.

4.4a is a huge draw, that can’t be right. Do you mean 44ma? Have you tried pulling fuses yet?

That battery is bad. If your alternator shows 14.3, it’s good, but battery can’t hold a charge. If I were you, I’d stop messing around, go to Walmart and get a new battery. Anything below 12.3 and you can easily have starting issues. Charging the battery won’t help you. Your alternator is...

What does the battery read with the car running? Should be 13.9-14.4. What does it read with the car off?

Glad you finally got it! Are you saying you tried turning the caliper piston? That should only be pushed back in like N7turbo mentions. You read so many nightmares about this job, but I just wonder how much of it is user error versus a poorly designed system. I have not done my rear brakes...