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Remove the caliper and bracket - take those out of the equation. Then, check the hub again. Also, make sure the rear splash guard isn't contacting anywhere.

Subbb :cool:(y)

Nice! My favorite Mazda6 model (even more than the Mazdaspeed6)

Score! I would go back and grab as many of the MSP specific parts you can get. The steering wheel looks a little rough, but the airbag is intact. The gauge cluster is an MSP specific piece. The subwoofer might be missing, but the box is a nice custom piece. Add your own woofer and amp...

Yeah, they look like all the others on the market currently

Magnaflow made a great exhaust back in the day, and that's the one I ran on my Protege sedan. A little less expensive than the Racing Beat, and had a great subdued sound. Unfortunately, not made anymore.

How much do you want to spend? Also, there aren't too many product still available for this chassis. Racing Beat makes a great product, and will give reasonable sound behind a cat-less header. But, the cost is quite a bit higher than some of the cheap "EBay" style products. Megan Racing...

Bigger tire = bigger contact patch. Bigger contact patch = less force per square inch. Basic physics right there.

AS long as the hard points mount up, and the alignment can be brought into spec, you'll be fine.

225/50-17 will be about an inch taller than the 205/50-17 tire. A 225/45-17 will be a closer diameter match the OEM size. I ran 215/50-17 on our old Mazda5 with OEM wheels. Also, for winter duty, if you go too wide, the car will float over the snow, instead of cutting through it.

When parts in Mazda's system get a design revision, they add the "A" to the end of the number. I wouldn't think twice about the new arm not being exactly the same as the other side. If the part ends up with a second revision, the part number will get a "B" at the end, and so on.

Looks to me like one of all the other 4-1 short tube headers that are available for the car. Back in the day, the one tog et was either the 4-2-1 AWR header, or the 4-1 long tube RActive header. There was also a long tube 4-2-1 JDM header, but that one required some re-work to the mid cat pipe...

Interesting coil setup... Looks like instead of running 2 coils, you'll be running 4. That kit is only for the conversion harness, which really only looks like some connectors and split-wires. Not sure how much you actually gain from that conversion... As for the calipers, the V6 626 front...

Be aware that the Blue LEDs will not shine blue through the gauge face. The face itself has an orange tint. My picture above is with white LEDs. The color is from the gauge faces.

I used white LEDs, which kept the cluster colors mostly intact, just brighter. They would dim with the dash dimmer switch, too.

Sweet. Here's my LED conversion from 2007... I used white T10 194 and T5 74 LED bulbs:

This thread is derailing fast.... The problem isn't the truck or the Miata, it's DOT regulations. In my opinion, there should be a maximum height for headlights, and a minimum height for side view mirrors and driver noggins. But, there isn't.

Thanks for pulling this together! This is a great resource for Mazda3 / Mazda6 / CX-5 owners.

The Vision X Compact looks like fun. The Vision X Coupe... I think this will be polarizing. Looks to me like a grown-up current generation Mazda3. Mazda needs to bring some new fantastic driving "Cars" to market.