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I think vacuum filling works best with systems where the radiator cap is on the overflow reservoir. I've seen it done a few times and its seems to work well. I believe my 14 Explorer calls for vacuum filling (cap on reservoir), but I've just filled it the old fashion way and haven't had any issues.

Unfortunately, I don't have a CX5 because of the seats. I was ready to sign, but wanted more seat time so the dealer let me take a 19 GTR home for the night. On the way home, my left leg started to go numb due to the pressure from the left bolster. This took a good 20+ minutes to occur, so...

Or a Windsor 5.0 if you're a 'Ferd' guy like myself. :)

Cost no factor, whichever I can go to the store and grab off the shelf. If cost is a factor, whichever is cheapest that I can go to the store and grab off the shelf. You smell what I'm stepping in?

Extending magnet pen thingy. Or, just forget about it like I do with various bits/sockets and be surprised when it shows up again.

Use it, don't use it, but honestly, do what E_N (sort of) says and grab a jug of whatever synthetic oil you want from Walmart. I usually get Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, Valvoline Advanced Synthetic or Mobil 1. Just change it regularly (~5k miles) and you'll be fine. Don't overthink it.

Good call. I think there was a TSB to reprogram the ECU. I didn't believe the posts when it was initially reported, but I experienced it first hand when I purposely did test drives when it was very cold (like 0F). Car was gutless in 1st and I think 2nd gears and then took off in 3rd.

I paid about $750 to have 2 Ford heads (2 valve per cylinder) cleaned, valve job and surfaced, so $530 is right in line with that since you have same total number of valves and arguably a bit more complicated head design.

I think one other thing to point out for that CX5 in the video, almost 100k miles in 2 years. I'm just guessing, but I bet it saw a lot of highway miles, just 'loping along' on the freeway at constant speed/rpm. If that's the case, I wonder if it sees more buildup because it doesn't get a lot...

It's not uncommon for dealers to request money (or state the customer may have to pay) to diagnose something, even if it might be under warranty. Both times I've brought vehicles in for (what I believe is) warranty work, they told me up front that if it's not covered under the warranty, I'm on...

Be honest, this was what you were doing. :D

Gas station by me had 91 No-Eth for same price as their 89 E10. Their 91 E10 is more expensive than 91 No-Eth. Makes no sense. I thought it was a mistake last summer, but it's been that way for over a year. Another station near me has 91 No-eth for something like $1 more than 91 E10, which is...

Since the cruise control still works, I would say it's LESS LIKELY to be a speed sensor. CC needs to know vehicle speed to control it, so the ECU is still able to see the vehicle speed. If it were me, Issue + warranty = dealer

Sounds like faulty thermometers or you have a short somewhere creating heat. Or (or) ambient temp is 130 degrees. Simple thermodynamics says it's not possible for engine to retain that much heat without external heat source after 12hrs, and especially 36hrs unless ambient temp is the same.

I agree with Chas, read the manual and to add, sometimes ports are delayed, so if you shut the car off it may still show powered for a bit of time. Also, that port could wake up when you unlock it or open the doors.

As long as you put the EPB in service mode, rear brakes are just as easy as the front. Not identical, but personally I would say way easier than drum brakes.

Make sure you go on a good, long test drive. When I was looking to buy a CX5 a few years back (2021 GTR model), the dealer let me take one home for the night. That's when I realized the seats didn't work for me. Short drives were fine, but after about a 1/2 hour, my left leg started to go numb...

4 :D.....I'll show myself out.