I'm in the Laurel/Beltsville area and I just picked up AWR F&R mounts, side inserts, and stock replacement j-pipe for my 03.5 MSP but have no tools nor a place to install them. Does anyone have any referrals for a shop/garage? Anyone willing to do a joint install? I'll pay.
has anybody figured out how to fix the side to side play in the shifter? It has nothing to do with how tight the nuts are at the bottom of the shifter, it has to do with one of the two linkage rods, and its not the one where kartboy or twm shifter bushings go. there is a rubber piece that I...
brand new TWM, its so much better, much less play and goes into gear with a much more solid feel. It's shorter, looks better from inside the car, and simply feels like a higher quality shift. The one thing that other people might not like is that it is a little bit harder to shift, but with a...
Hello everyone, I have done the unthinkable, the unimaginable...yes, I have removed the B&M shortshifter. Thanks to the recommendations of a number of members on the forum, I decided to actually put the jack under the shifter and jack it out of the housing. It required some pulling from the top...
oh the s+j pipes are great, its the rest of the exhaust thats miserable (in my opinion). If you want the best you can buy at this point, get the vibrant exhaust . Unfortunately it will replace the j pipe you already have (but thats not the expensive part anyway). You can also look into the...
I wouldn't get the corksport exhaust either. Instead, I would look into getting the midpipe from ProtegeGarage (w/ or w/out the high flow cat) and getting whatever catback exhaust you want. The corksport metal is very thin and has problems with cracking. It is not simply solved with stiffer...
I have the newest one (6-1), pm Kooldino and ask him about two man street tuning, I have never done anything with tuning in my life nor the mpi tuner and we tuned his car slightly together over the weekend. He'll help you
update, once the sun went down I noticed that my boost gauge is definitely still dimmer than the wideband, even with the foggy and dark plastic pieces removed. anyone else have this problem or do i have a defect?
I figured out some stuff about the boost gauge everyone, if you unscrew the bezel and take apart (after the bezel is off, parts simply slide off of gauge) the gauge then you will notice on both the wideband and the tru boost that there is a thin dark plastic screen, well behind the plastic...
Does anyone have the new AEM Tru Boost gauge hooked up next to the AEM wideband? They were just installed on my car over the weekend and the AEM WBO2 is significantly brighter than the Tru Boost gauge (both the LED's and number reading). Please post or pm me if anyone else has had any experience...