My mom has a 2017 cx5 2.5 AWD. Its always had dealer oil changes for its entire life. This time she wanted me to change it for her. I go under the car and remove the little access panel and the 8mm hex plug is stripped so bad I cant remove it. I know how to get it off but it would possibly...
When I had my corksport SRI, I ran very lean (up to +17% LTFTs) due to the air swirling from the cone filter being so close to the MAF sensor. These cars run better fuel trims with cold air intakes. All aftermarket cone filters swirl the air, and with a CAI, the longer length of the tube allows...
Yeah hypertech is a good buy, and you can run it with other mods and it's fine. Biggest change is the AFR under WOT. Before I was very rich at around 10:1, with the hypertech it's now around 12:1.
You won't hyrdolock unless you drive through a pool of water like a foot deep. I live in Washington state where it rains probably 75% of the year, and I don't hyrdolock driving on the freeway with sheets of water getting thrown at me off the back of a semi truck, or driving though mild standing...
I'm assuming the valve cover gasket had a leak and leaked onto the spark plugs and sensors? The parts alone are only about $200 or so. So the labor seems a bit high to me. I could do all that myself in under and hour. $500 for an hour of labor is a lot.
Get a electric tester for 5 bucks at an auto store and test each fuse. You just touch it to each fuse on the little metal part and it it lights up it's good. That most likely the cause.
intake cam would be different. 04-05 2.0's didn't have VVT on the intake cam, but 06+ do. I'm assuming then it's a 2.0? What's the old motor and what's the new motor going in? Both 2.0? or 2.3?
Probably warped the head. If you can do that yourself I'd say go for it. If not, probably cheaper and easier to just get a replacement engine and swap it in.
New motor is about $350. Other scenario would be the tracks are bent and that would be about $1000 parts and labor. Best bet is to try to muscle it back into place and leave it until you can fix it yourself with the parts.
IDK man I can't really see behind there from above to see where it attaches to. You'll have to try to figure it out. I don't really have time to jack my car up and look under it, it's an event jacking my car up cause it's so low. It appears it's attached to the metal bit in the center of the...
Also that white thing is an electrical connection that needs to get plugged back in. I circled the area in the photo where the other end should be approximately. You'll probably have to get a new bolt and nut to re ground it though.
a/c doesn't have a "fan", that's the fan that blows air on the radiator when your coolant gets above 212 degrees. The green wire looks like a ground, which should be bolted onto a metal part of the chassis somewhere.