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Gates belts along with the INA tensioner from RockAuto, shown in that post I made in 2021 along with the ATF drain and fill job.

I used zip ties on my water pump belt. Had to use like 2 or 3 of them IIRC because just one alone broke.

I went with LASFIT amber LED's for both front and rear on our 2014 CX5. They have built-in circuitry to prevent hyper flashing, and are extremely bright. Had them a couple years now. The only issue is that if you sit with the turn signal on for several minutes, they will heat up enough that I...

note my post #17 from before our summer vacation, did the compression test and it all tested perfect, and also found no combustion gasses present in the coolant.

Test came back, not so good, as shown in Oil Analysis Thread. Am now starting to consider bypassing the heater core temporarily, using Head Gasket Fix similar to DaveIndy's thread, then flushing it out after ~500 miles and also replacing the radiator at the same time. Will switch over to...

Decided to try a different lab, got similar results. Time to weigh our options I guess.

ugh, that's exactly what I want for our 2014 but literally NO ONE makes that type for the 1st gens. Hangs over the edge of the bumper, but does not extend up the sides. I have one now that extends up the sides and the curvature just will not conform to the bumper curvature. The adhesive tape...

hope it holds up for you. I've tried PETG 3D printed parts in cars, and they don't hold up to the heat on summer days. Always ends up warping.

So I procrastinated a bit, ended up going about 4,500 miles on that last oil fill. I changed it Saturday with my last stock of Mazda 0w-20 (plan to switch to Mobil1 5w-30 next), and also ordered an Amsoil oil test kit to send my used oil sample for analysis.

nope, I don't really know s*** about it I guess. I just think they're tacky, and cheaply made. But hey, that's just like, my opinion, man. :LOL:

I had those clear edge guards on a car in the 90's. The UV exposure turned them yellow after awhile. Not sure if 3M has improved the material since then. Likely not.

lololol my parents had a 4-cylinder diesel Oldsmobile (I think) when I was a little kid in the 80's. That car was a massive POS :ROFLMAO:

what car takes that OEM drain bolt? Ours is black, with a flat round head, and takes a 8mm hex Allen wrench/socket.

that's weird, I thought motor oil had to be synthetic to be a 0w grade.

Washed our 2014 on Sunday, and my kid helped. Finally washed off the bugs and junk from uh.... our June vacation road trip.

note that the total ATF fluid capacity is close to two GALLONS including the fluid that's held in the torque converter. So 2 ounces isn't going to matter as far as overfilling. What does the dipstick show when measured on level ground with ATF temp of 122°F? Also note that you only changed...

Anything with a 10mm hex head that's around 5/8" long would work fine. I'm sure there's something around the radiator support area. But the bolt itself is really common. I got a bag of 50 here, but any hardware store should have it. JIS Flange Bolt 10.9 Coarse M6X1.0 / 10mm Wrench

you don't really need a super special OEM bolt for the dipstick. Any flanged-head 6x1.0mm, 16mm long bolt will work just fine. I have a whole bag full of 'em in my garage, yellow zinc grade 10.9 versions, that I use all over my cars to replace old, crusty OEM bolts. Used extensively on my...

You'll see an oil leak around where the wire harness plugs in on top of the valve cover. I tried replacing the seal in the valve cover, but it still leaked up through the harness plug itself. I had to de-pin the harness to completely clean the oil out of everything when I replaced the valve.