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I got these for our 2014 last year. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FNVYGFL They seem to be genuine as far as I could tell (looked good and had the correct resistance, anyway). They've been working fine since. YMMV

Huh? It still has a tach.

The clue is in the name... EGR stands for Exhaust Gas Recirculation.

That's not true - at least for our 2019 CX-5 and 2023 CX-50. If you leave the lights on Auto, the taillights turn on when it gets dark.

I've seen no reports. My 2023 fob (new style) is still working perfectly, and I use it all the time.

Well, for one thing, mounted longitudinally?

Per my 2019 wiring diagrams (so your 2025 may vary), the Rear2 fuse is always live, the F fuse is only live when the car is on (ACC).

Yeah, sorry, my bad. I misread 'transmission' fluid. :(

That's what might be called "a clue". Head warped.

Wait... does this happen when you're driving? If so, this is definitely a safety problem and you need to go back to the dealer ASAP! Otherwise, does your key fob memory setting have the seat all the way back? If so, you may be accidentally pressing the key fob button in your pocket.

Doesn't work on my CX-50 (can only roll down).

Well, I have one data point... I got a pair (only came as a pair) of front arch trims from Amazon to replace one on my daughter's car that was scraped up. They shipped them folded in half, which kinked them so badly that they wouldn't straighten out, even with heat. So please check the reviews...

This is an electrically-operated throttle (drive-by-wire), so a CAI will have no effect. Maybe try lubricating your pedal (or check if anything is interfering with it) if you're have a 'feel' issue.

That has been broken off the fender, leaving those "plastic pieces that surround 2 on the push pins" which were originally part of the trim moulding. The different color pins were likely original, just reuse them if needed when you get a replacement piece.

Troll much?

Yep. I did pretty much exactly the same thing when I bought our CX-50.

I have (and have used) Kroil. But with anything I've tried it on, it has not seemed to provide much relief. I always assumed that those bolts/nuts were just TOO rusted, and that no penetrating oil would have worked. But, I just watched that video above (thanks @GovtCheese!) and see that it...

I would attribute this more to wind resistance (and friction losses) rather than running rich. The ECM will (should) always strive for perfect stoichiometric ratio for emissions reasons.

Well, there's this thread: DIY - Ball joint (Only) Replacement - 2016 CX-5 But the Lower Control Arm (LCA) is not meant to be serviceable, so most people just replace the whole LCA. A search of the forum for LCA shows a lot of threads on this: Search results for query: lca