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Just bought some silicone sealant and slathered it around the edges. There is also a gasket behind the filler. I did not replace it. Probably a dealer part. Or you could get some gasket maker.

IMO- When one goes bad I buy two cheap ones but only replace the one bad one. They are easy to replace but seem random on how long they last. No sense in replacing a good part. But now I have a spare on hand when/if I need to replace another one.

So, changing spark plugs and the coil pack pulled out without pulling the spark plug boot up. Any ideas on how to get the spark plug boot out?

Got a small crack in my radiator. Which do you think is better, TYC or CSF? Both are within a dollar or two on RockAuto.

Yes, it worked for me. Helps to have multiple Proteges for reference. I made up the procedure...

That elbow pivot point was the issue. When defrost only is selected, the 'elbow' should point up. It was pointed down, had to force it up. So, here is the procedure to re-attache the cable... 1) attach cable (but leave clip unattached) 2) Select defrost only 3) Turn car on and fan to 3 or 4...

Clip is secure. Routing may be incorrect as I had it pulled all the way out. How is it supposed to be routed?

Looks good. This is the forum for finding answers for your P5. Not sure what your location is but as with all older cars watch out for rust. Clean out the drains. If you get a CEL, scan it and fix it promptly, much easier to fix a single code than a whole list of codes.

I took apart my dash and had the vent selector cable unhooked. Put everything back together now the two extreme selections on my vent selection knob have the same selection as the previous one on the knob...So, Defrost Only setting is the same as defrost and foot vents. Upper Vents only setting...

Yeah no idea what brand I got last time. Code went away on its own. So, holding off on the replacement for now.

Just go another P0705 - only about 30k miles since I replaced the Neutral Safety Switch .... rrrrrr.....

Wow you are right. That was the problem. For the future person finding this thread.... The measured resistance between any two prongs on the blower motor resistor should be 2.6 ohms or less. One was close to 0 ohms. On the bad part I had several that measured around 86 ohms.

My leak was from the gas cap area. I found it by hosing down different areas of the car. I still have a small leak from somewhere I can't find. But after sealing that up I get much less water in.

Symptoms: Fan Speed 1 and 2 not working for both heat and AC. AC light stays on. No flicker. Just no fan. 3 & 4 works fine. I have had the AC flicker resistor fix in for over a year. Speeds 1 & 2 just stopped working recently. Unhooked the plug from the switch and it looked a bit burnt. Got...

I run 5w40 when temps are below 32F. 10w40 when temps above 32F. Full Synthetic - high mileage (if I can find it). All 3 of my protege's burn oil. The above helps, but still burn oil. Keep extra oil in the trunk and check every time you get gas.

1) Keep on top of your maintenance Change the oil every 3500-4000 miles Check the oil every time you fill up for automatics - drain and fill the ATF every 15k miles and change the filter every 4th time 2) When the CEL comes on - diagnose and fix it ASAP 3) spray fluid film or corrosion X-HD in...

Oh snap 1/3 million miles. Bought in 2013 for $1900, had 155k on the clock. Call out to Diagram Dude for helping diagnose lots of issues...

My son did his first Auto-X in Pikachu (my yellow P5). I was in my NC (red in the background).