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Even a stock EVO, STi or Cobalt SS for that matter are so infuriating to drive because of the lag I just couldn't ever bring myself to trade up from the MSP. So I never want to do anything that would diminish low end torque or response. However, the loss on these plots is negligible. One of...

Well that $90 was an Ebay deal. The lowest price I've found online is $170. The GHL does look like an inferior design and also is not cast iron.

Well to be perfectly honest, when I lost the one stud, I put loc-tite on the stock bolt. So when I removed it to put in the replacement ARP stud, the stud simply would not go in. I eventually stripped a good portion of the threads in the block. I then had to buy a tap and clean it up, and I...

I am not sure how to feel about the 11whp gain there when they lost torque lower down. The MSP ecu is too finicky to dyno with any consistency, but any fuel inconsistencies should be out of the equation by 6500 rpm where they are showing the most gain. One thing is for sure though, the gains...

All cars since the invention of the O2 sensor have a learning ECU, it is called closed loop. Good idea on checking the other forums. The person that posted that copied the description from the ebay ad verbatim, and only has a total of 8 posts, sounds like a plant. I guess it is total...

The studs are M8x1.25. I should know. My engine managed to spit out one of my ARP studs and I had to buy a single stud and nut at some absurd price. After shipping it was over $20. For some reason, I decided I couldn't live with just one stock bolt in its place.

If anyone has cracked the Protege PCM this is the first I've heard of it. Even if you could crack it, I doubt there are even rewritable parameters for setting open/closed loop operation. I think this is why Mazda allowed our cars to run closed loop under boost, because they simply couldn't...

Here's hoping for great success. Did you get a quote for the rest of the down pipe to be made yet?

This is a tricky question. The short answer: it is the power. The pressure seen by the intake, heads and cylinder during intake is negligible compared to the pressure seen during combustion. The extra PSI in the intake just means more air and more fuel to burn and more pressure during...

If the head gasket goes, typical symptoms are smoke upon startup. And foaming oil from coolant in the oil. If you have no symptoms, it is probably fine. My temp spiked once when my original radiator leaked on me slowly enough for me not to notice. That was about three years ago, and the car...

So I went the full two catch can system and sent my valve cover in to be machined out. The first problem I had was full vacuum on the breather can sucking in unmetered air and throwing a CEL. I had to have another head made for the breather can that allowed me to connect it back to my intake...

I wouldn't think the ECU was that different. When I was essentially running an O2 clamp with the AEM FIC it was consistent, but I ran into ignition cut after a week of running just fine. With the O2 clamp, the PCM will keep adding more and more fuel and the trims eventually max out at 25%...

I use imgur to post all my stuff on the forums. You can put the app on your phone and send it straight to the site as well. The links are super simple and never have to worry about SMS limits.

Hornsfan, I also bought a 2.5" midpipe with high flow cat that included the J pipe. The back to back pulls showed nothing, nada. I was within a tenth of a MPH trap speed in the 1/4 mile. This was in the middle of the summer and it was pretty slow, so maybe in colder weather the extra power...

The O2 clamp doesn't trigger open loop. I really wish it did, but all it does is tell the PCM that the mixture is lean (0V) and add fuel. While this works, it eventually ***** with the long term trims. Just click on an random page in the 120+ page SSAFC thread and you'll see someone complain...

This is why I asked if you just plan on driving slow. The airflow at low rpms is low as is the heat comparatively. I would still be worried about the plastic undertray melting, but it might be ok. You could just take it off for the drive over. Radiator hoses can handle a bit of heat, but I...

Well, I am pretty sure the plastic undertray will be completely liquified in seconds. You can probably kiss the lower radiator hose goodbye as well and if that melts, all hell breaks loose. There's probably a dozen other things that will be destroyed pretty quickly I am not even thinking...

Yeah me too. The only thing is, when you install it, will you tow the car to a muffler shop or just drive slowly without an exhaust, or are you planning on welding the J pipe yourself? I can't believe we are just now finding this. Even at full price, it is half the cost of the CS, although I...

A stock MSP builds positive pressure pretty much off idle at full throttle. I had to uninstall my AEM software on my laptop so I can't go get specifics, but the car is definitely at full boost by 3krpms, probably sooner. I believe the last time this issue popped up, it was a bad boost guage...

Wow, very interested in how this turns out. It does look like the flange will be angled slightly towards the front of the car instead of the back when reversed, but looks like it could be compensated for with a custom J pipe.