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The longer links will have the potential to hit the lateral arm. The pro5 uses the shorter links. Also, look for moog k80863. They are thicker and have grease fittings

You want the shorter links and I believe the stock rear bar is 16mm. Msp is 19mm. Awr is 21mm and progress is 22mm.

I had a starting issue a while back. Turned out the wiring for the crank sensor had chaffed through and was grounding out on the lifting eyelet closest to the timing cover. That plug there goes down to the crank sensor. Could be worth looking into. Or perhaps the eye is dirty or getting close to...

The rear mount is the one that causes the most vibes. Ive got inserts in the other 3 and the rear is filled with 60a liquid urethane. In my auto the vibes are minimal. Keys dont rattle in the door. Empty can shakes a bit in the cup holder but anything in it and its quiet. Before the 60a I had...

Ive got a rr racing front insert. Its stiff like 88 or 95 duro. And awr side inserts prob like 70 duro. In an automatic i felt almost nothing at idle or with ac on. Then i put the rr insert in the rear mount. I thought the radio was going to rattle out! Way too much nvh for me. I took it out and...

Bump this thread! Good seller fast responses and includes pics of items! Thanks Coker!!

just that single grommet. without it the headlight bounces around and its impossible to aim so if the damaged light has it that's all i need. I'll send you a pic to confirm which part i'm requesting. thanks

on that pass side headlight thats busted up - on the inside where the bulb goes. on the hi beam there is a grommet that goes in the opening. its like 2" around with a hole in the middle to put hi beam bulb thru. would you be willing to pull that grommet out and sell it?

Id love those! Shoot me a price

Cr3 motorsports used to have whiteline and pedders i think. There was also super pro bushings. I believe they were from Australia. There was a thread on here once before about redoing the rear trailing bushings but I cant find it yet

what is your lowering combo? when I went with eibach and illumina I had to use some large fender washers on the top nut because the threads didnt go down far enough to keep tension on the spring. might be worth investigating. another thing to check is the upper ball on the rear endlink. make...

Forgot to mention if you choose the beefier rear links i had to use a 90*zerk on the tops otherwise it would hit the inner wheelwell. But might be because im on Eibachs. Either way they r way more user friendly i think

Ive been running the progress bar for like 9 years. It matched up perfectly with stock end links and the bushings lined up perfect too. I chose it over the AWR because of those reasons and it looks stock if you just glance under there. About 5 or 6 years ago I bought the Moog endlinks #K80868 (i...

First off, any urethane mount will cause increased vibes. That being said - I replaced my stock mounts at just over 100k because the pass side was starting to tear. I bought a 4 kit off amazon ( dont remember the brand) and installed those. They actually had more vibes than the stock ones at...

Have you done a visual inspection of the wire down to the crank sensor? Minkushunter had the same issue I did where that wire chaffed and caused a starting issue. I believe his chaffed on a pulley. Mine looked like it had worn through on the lifting eyelet near the cam cover. I couldnt see it...

Yes they must be removed and the inserts fill the gaps. The awr inserts are kinda plyable so if the mount has sagged it still goes in pretty easy. The rr racing ones are stiffer and it takes some effort to get them in if the mount is older. I chose inserts over full urethane mounts because i...

Ive got 3 mounts with inserts. The sides are awr. The front is a rr and super hard. Probably like 90a. I got a rear one from them too and tried it out for like 3 months. Too many rattles for me tho so i pulled it. After a while the rear mount started to sag and i got some vibes. Then i found...

yes the clip by the eyelet and that clip below and behind the power steering pump were intact and snug. im not sure how it rubbed through the casing against the eyelet. it was right up against it though and just small enough to not be seen by a visual inspection. i saw it when i removed the...

Thats cool you were able to find and fix it. Thats kind of what I was refering to. Mine was chaffed right at the eyelet to lift the motor. Same thing was happening though - it would touch metal short out and kill the engine. And without any code being thrown. Replacing it allowed me to route it...

How do your wires look? Possible old plug wire grounding out or causing a weak spark? Plugs and coil packs are newer but how about the wires? I just had an issue car would just turn off while driving it. No symptoms of it happening just bam! Its off. Turns out the crank sensor had chaffed just...