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Ok, so I switched those two parts out of my LX and into my yellow P5. Cleared codes on LX, Did drive mode 1 - not all IMS Monitors checked. But no codes yet either. Did drive mode 1 on Yellow P5 - No codes yet. So, I'll see if the codes follow the parts or stay with the car. FYI - here is a...

Are these the EGR boost sensor and EGR boost sensor solenoid ?

I have seen this before in one of my cars. Always freaks me out. Only has happened when its 10F or colder. Once the car warmed up everything is fine.

LX 323K miles Yellow P5 199k miles Blue P5 - 197k miles All burn oil. LX is pretty close to self changing over 4000 miles. I switched to 5w40 in the winter and 10w40 in the summer. Seems to help a little.

I replaced both the VICS and VTCS. It took 619 miles before all the IM Monitors (OBDII checks) were complete.

So, just got a CEL with a P0106. No other codes. This is on my LX with 323k miles. 1) how bad is it to drive the car without fixing it? e.g. can I continue to drive it for a few hundred miles while I sort out the issue? 2) From the manual, it could be... EGR boost sensor EGR boost sensor...

Hah, well... now I have a pending P1569... Looking through my records, I replaced both the VICS and VTCS within 700 miles of each other.

Well, after 50 mile drive to work today I scanned and I got a pending P0660. So, I'll replace the VICS. Q: If I just have a pending code and I fix the VICS, do you think it will go through its checks quicker if I clear the codes or not clear the codes?

Nothing will just snap on. You would need to do some major modifications in order to get any body parts to fit. Not much from the interior will fit either. Some possibilities - steering wheel, seats, possibly speakers. Mazda 3 is a completely different car from the P5, so you will be hard...

Had a P0455 about... 1) replace the solenoid valve about 10k miles ago 2) Got a Pending P0455 - Replaced the gas cap as everything around the gas cap was very dirty. Cleared codes. Been driving for 800 miles and the Evap I/M monitor still hasn't cleared. But I don't have any pending codes...

Hah.... guess what ..... You were correct LF caliper just seized up. Just took one more hard rain.

Yeah, I haven't had that experience. If I was restoring then yeah, I'd replace both. But just keeping alive, I prefer to leave something alone that is working. But, will keep an eye on it.

For those who use the search... Symptoms - with both front wheels off the ground and in drive. right wheel did not turn unless I used my hands (with gloves) to stop the left wheel. - In neutral and wheels off the ground I could turn the wheel, but it was difficult...

Well, lubed everything up. Put it back together. Pumped brakes a couple of times and then while the front was still on jack stands started it up and put it in drive (did not give it gas, it is an auto tragic) Left wheel rotated while right wheel did not. So, looks like its new caliper time...

Seized caliper on my Blue P5. Not sure how bad it is. I am going to try and lube everything up but.... If I do need a new caliper... 1) Do they come with a piston or would I need to buy a piston also? 2) Preferred brands? or brands to stay away from?

I have 2 P5s and an EX. Also, had a P5 that was totaled. In addition have an 07 Mazda 3 and a 09 Miata

That is pretty impressive. Cars are getting old, many of us are just keeping them alive. Maybe we should have a thread on "doing it wrong, but I don't care" The front rad support on the car was knocked in a little bit in minor accident. I have some 1" pieces of wood for spacers so the grill...

pm sent

Well since the bracket holding the front bolts rusted completely off and the back nuts have to come off... I don't need to worry about that weird sized one. Which is good because 17/32 = 13.5mm. Amazon and ebay didn't have any 17/32 deep sockets. I'll have to get under their later this week...