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Checked for vacuum leaks and found none Checked purge solenoid valve and it is good Grounded the Throttle Body Cleared codes and drove for a few minutes. Code is pending. So, still have the issue. I know these are out of spec ST FTRM1(%) 23.4 Long Term Fuel Trim 20.3 Should be + or - 10...

I pulled a P2177 code. No other codes, car runs fine. Cleaned the MAF, checked for evap leaks with starter fluid (none found), replaced air filter as the side seal was crimped (thought dirt may be getting passed it and fouling the MAF). Cleared the codes and it came back in just a few miles...

Tend to be emission issues. Make sure you do an OBDII scan. If anything shows up as not test yet, I'd pass. I'd rather get a car with a CEL on and know what codes its throwing than deal with a seller that is trying to pass something off on me and not having any idea what the codes may be...

I have water in the rear quarter panels (both sides). Lift up the carpet in the hatch and its sitting their, under the jack and also on the other side. Any idea how it is getting in and how I can prevent it? Also, happens in the LX I have.

I don't think it is the P5. I think it is Sylvania. I've noticed in the past 2-3yrs that my bulbs blow out much more frequently. I tend to buy bulbs in pairs but replace only the blown out bulb. I've had several instances where I replaced a bulb on one side and then 8 months later that side...

ok, I got frustrated and took it to my shop. Turns out there was a loose wire that connected to the radio-head unit. I assume it was the wire that dims the head-unit when the lights are on. So, that's yet another one on this circuit. aargh $360. But at least it is fixed and wasn't something...

1) I tested the TNS Relay (the correct one this time) and it is ok 2) Disconnected the instrument cluster and the fuse still blew 3) Disconnected both side marker lights and the parking light inside the headlight, fuse still blew I tested for continuity to ground on the cluster and I was able...

I pulled all the tail light bulbs (unfortunately there is no plug into the wires to pull) and pulled the whole license plate light assembly (both). Fuse still blows. Is there some better way I should be testing this? Also, just to make sure. Is this the TNS relay?

I'll check the taillight harnesses. I guess I am going to pull/disconnect one by one everything that is connected to that fuse, if I disconnect something and then fuse does not blow then that is what is causing the short. So, what is on this fuse?? Tail lights license plate light instrument...

Ok, just put the good cars headlight stalk on the bad car. Fuse still blows. A few people have reported the same issue... https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123674430-Tail-light-fog-light-amber-light-problem...

As soon as I turn the stalk to parking light the Tail Light Fuse will blow. This Fuse is also linked to interior lights. Things I have tried... 1) Replacing the fuse 2) Using a higher rated fuse (30a as opposed to the 15a) also blew immediately 3) Pulled the interior light dimmer switch, fuse...

Should I be replacing #3 ? or which one?

I am going to change the brake fluid out. How much brake fluid does a P5 take? Thanks...

Over a year on two different cars. No problems.

P0421 - You replace the O2 sensor and the code didn't go away. Therefore your CAT is bad. You can either live with the code, replace the CAT, or drill out a spark plug non-fouler and put it in between the exhaust and the O2 sensor (google it, many posts videos on it). P0302 - Most likely is a...

Clip, what clip? Mine is having the same symptoms. What 'clip' is this? Is it something that came unplugged? What should I look for when pulling the radio or glove box?

I agree. So, is this the PRC Solenoid? http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2003/mazda/protege5/fuel_injection/fuel_pressure_regulator.html

So, I am getting a P0090 and only a P0090. No other codes. From research it looks like it could be one or more of the following.. https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/188773/mil+on,+dtc+P0090,+whats+that 1) PRC solenoid valve malfunction 2) Connector or terminal malfunction 3) Short to ground...

No, you cannot just replace the connector. The only reason you would need to replace the connector is if it is melted like the above picture. I have an 02 Protege LX and my son recently totaled my 02 P5. Both has this issue and I used the 'radioshack' fix and everything has worked fine for...

So my manual says use ATF M-III or equivalent (e.g. Dexron III) for the power steering fluid. However, the cap says "Power Steering Fluid Only". So, which is it ATF or PS Fluid?