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sorry dude, works been insane and im not on here very much anymore and forgot to get the pictures you wanted.

lol so true i almost feel like stopping by to look at it and busting the guys balls over it. im really curious to know how much he picked it up for, knowing what i got out of it.

i dont care who takes them, just somebody take them lol

you know your driving a MSP when 5 months after you sell it it turns up at a local used car dealer and you drive by shaked your head, thinking to your self, if they only knew lol http://allentown.craigslist.org/ctd/2112053748.html

yes sir i still have them, id love it if you could take them off of my hands for me

as far as your door goes, your door lock actuator is bad. not sure on the specifics on the actuators for the P5s. it my very well be build into the latch assembly or available seperately. as for the accessory socket, it would be easiest to wire a "hot at all times" toggle switch to the socket...

yeah and my 83 rx7 litterally has a 2 inch buzzer wired in under the dash and it is so obnoxious, ill be cutting it out one of these days. but as for these newer cars theyre sure not as easy as older ones were to modify things like this lol

i can assure you the chime is not in the BCM, it is in the instrument cluster which holds the gauge control module. the BCM is built into the passenger junction box and that is not the vicinity where the chime is heard coming from. the instrument cluster makes the warning chime.

i been looking at some wiring diagrams and there may be one way to disable it, but im trying to figure out what other circuits might be affected

This is listed as the exterior lamps circuit. it doesnt give fuse numbers but you should be able to figure it out and trace it down from there. ill try linking it first. if that doesnt work let me know and ill save and upload it http://www.e-toolbox.com/ads/wiring/va248288.pdf

the warning chime is integral to the gauge cluster, no way to disable it with out interfering with other systems

theres no pin, or plunger style switch in the door jam on these cars, the door switch is built into the latch/door lock actuator ass'y inside the door

unfortunately with everthing being multiplexed together through the body control module its going to be trial and error in finding the short. i could get you a wiring diagram and you could try disconecting some different things untill you dont pop the fuse anymore. does the fuse pop the moment...

yeah i learned last year at camelback which was decent to learn. but the guys i was with were used to blue so they were somewhat bored with it. ill deffinitly be hitting blue alot this year. im hopeing for at least 2 times a month, ideally id like to go every weekend, or at least ones a week at...

well guys the season is just starting up and i was wondering how many of yous will be hitting the slopes this year. maybe we could get a weekend thing together of your local or a reasonable drive from a nice mountain. so whos going to be tearing it up? i my self, board.

does it get worse if your brake from higher speeds, or after driving and braking for a while?

i might be down for a road trip to go this, iv been wanting to go for years but i never wanted to take my msp because i wasnt sure if i would make it hahahaha

just ran out and looked at mine and realized these are of a different design than on the hondas i work on. honda uses a plunger type switch in the door jam the the door it self contacts. mazda uses a switch thats integral to the latch ass'y. im not sure how effective lubing the latch will be...

bumpity bump

sounds like a door switch is sticking, not a real issue other than the dome light staying on. oh yeah, and the alarm wont arm if it thinks a door is open