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I gotta say, ive never experienced what the op described. On the hiway im at about 2k rpms or so and if i brake it does not shoot to 4k. Maybe i have the problem then. Lol

Well, the compressor puts a load on the engine so it will always use a bit more gas with the air on, or even the front defrost. You will also even lose a tiny bit of power.

I've had my 2013 since last June and haven't noticed anything like that. Although I haven't exactly been looking for it, but nothing has jumped out at me. I'll try to remember to take a look on my way home today.

Nope. That's strange. Does it seem to be revving as if it were in neutral, or is the car still fighting against you as if you still had your foot on the accelerator?

Id be interested in seeing whats going on. My thought though is if you could show your stealership a picture of what it looks like in the offending conditions it might be beneficial to your argument. That is if its the type of thing that would even show in a photo.

I wonder if it would show up in a picture? I guess it would be hard to get a camera to focus on the glass. But maybe on the dash just in front of the glass would show the pitting/crazing?

Here's what the manual says. Use your own judgement I guess. I'd insist on mazdas recommendation myself though. U.S.A. and CANADA 0W-20 full synthetic recommended: Mazda genuine oil is used in your Mazda vehicle and 0W-20 lubricant is recommended. Mazda genuine 0W-20 oil is required to achieve...

Good to know. Each wheel will have its own design and thickness though. I'd be surprised if there weren't some that don't fit just by how close my steels are.

I would find a new mechanic plain and simple. I went to a tire shop once for an oil change and they had to order the filter and oil from Mazda anyway. I would only use 0w20 full synthetic.

Are you sure alloy 16"s will fit? Some of us, including myself, have put on 16" steelies for winter but there is very little clearance left for the calipers. Since alloys are significantly thicker material they may not clear the calipers. Not sure, just something to consider and look into before...

It looks like the "M" and +, - shift signs are still next to the "D". So I assume it is the same slide to the left while in drive for manual mode.

It's normal if only your drivers window lights up when the lights are on. What bugs me more is the lock/unlock button. I'd stop to let someone out of the car in the dark and can't find the unlock switch. I've since changed the settings though so that the doors unlock when put in park. Now I have...

Yeah, it uses wheel speed to determine a low tire. No ice here yet. Dry cool roads. No spinning. All the same tires with the same life left in them. I'll bump the pressure up 5 lbs tonight though and reset in the morning and see if it goes off. We have a 3 hour road trip this weekend anyway so...

Good to know, thanks. I'd never seen that, or heard to inflate winter tires more than the vehicle spec.

Is anyone else finding that their tpms keeps going off after changing to winter wheels despite several correct attempts at a reset? It happened last year and this. I reset it in the garage this morning on flat level ground before driving and 5 km later it went off again. All tires are at 34 psi...

lol

Oh crap. Didnt see that. Long day. Lol carry on then.

Looks great! Take some pics in better light so we can see the front/back end etc. Congrats on the car.

I agree. That's a lot. I paid somewhere around in the $800-$900 range for 16" rims and winter tires.

It says "The price is per wheel"!!!!!! That's crazy. Confusing ad though because it says in the title, Wheels only, no tires. But then specifies how much tread he estimates is left on the tires. 8'