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Yours is full height, that's what matters. My 2018 came with a shorter tire so I spent a bunch of effort to get a new wheel and tire that had the same outer diameter but still fit in the pocket.

Presumably. I took a leap that the Canadian would be plug and play with my US 2018 and it was. I don't know why they gave the Canadians such a better one and didn't offer it in the US. Their floor mat option is way better too.

00CT-88-C57H https://mazdashopusa.com/products/trailer-hitch-2-receiver-harness-mazda-cx-5-2017-2021?variant=12815602319415

Did you get to see how much it would have cost without the warranty?

I don't know what access looks like, but if I were going to apply force, I do from one of these places. Not in the gaps just above the O-ring. The part looks injection molded. Liquified plastic gets shaped by a mold and then cools and hardens. If the area pointed out above were solid...

We're talking 1 or 2 mm less than new, and that's the allowable thickness AFTER turning them. It will be difficult to eyeball.

Seems like counterfeit plugs have resistance values all over the place. I plan on buying NGK equivalent and just measure resistance before installation to ensure they are in spec.

Ah, my google search was sloppy. I copied and pasted the number but then probably looked at a result without the MV. I assume there are no horror stories with those plugs, just not trusted like NGK?

What's wrong with the Value Line plug. Looks like its from NGK, what do they do to make it cheaper to manufacture? The notion of value line is a big turn-off, especially with no information about the differences.

If you pay $150 for an oil change and inspections for periodic maintenance, then this price for brakes is probably fine. I can't bring myself to pay that sort of money for such things. Apparently most people are okay with it.

I know this is off topic, but I'd like to hear more about it. I know exactly what you mean. It's hard to even get an HVAC tech to actually diagnose and repair simple problems with an existing install when they just want to sell a new system. PM?

Even cheaper is this Amazon.com and a video camera of some sort. That's what I used. Or you can make one from a gatorade bottle. I always bleed the brakes, and might as well replace the fluid, when I change pads/rotors.

I don't know about these part numbers, but for my 2018 I found that the Canadian version was completely different and worked perfectly on my US car. The Canadian did not require any cutting or piercing any wire insulation. I think it just involved adding a pin to one of the connectors by...

Its a check valve, that's what the "no return" means. It keeps the tube full of liquid so you don't have to pump all the way from the reservoir to the spray nozzles each time you want to spray. It would take a lot longer to prime and get spray and require a lot of unnecessary work for the pump.

Surely they mean your pads are at 3mm. No way the rotors are 3mm thick, that's a little over 1/10th of an inch.

Back on topic. With the transmission being a closed system, Mazda probably puts in the minimum amount they know is sufficient, and they probably do it very precisely and repeatably. This is hypothetical, and I pretend no special insight into automatic transmissions or Mazda's in particular...

Those are not necessarily contradictory. If you fill it to max and it gradually is consumed, and you top it off when it gets near min, its condition most of the time will be between the Min and the Max and its average level will be near that midpoint. If it were filled to the midpoint, and...

Halfway between Min and Max is the correct level. More than max is overfull. Less than min is underfilled. Anywhere in between is acceptable operating range. If you expect to consume oil, it makes sense to put it above the mid mark, but Max is the limit, not the target.