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I pulled the intake manifold, cleaned the valves and replaced the PCV valve. After driving for about 45 minutes today I let myself get a little hopeful that it was fixed and then about a half hour later it did it again. It did the same thing it did when I replaced the VVT solenoid, it ran good...

Every 7,500 Castrol GTX synthetic.

Today, after driving for awhile it was doing the 500 RPM idle. If I rev the engine it just goes back to 500 RPM. I turned on the A/C and of course the idle increased for the A/C compressor, but as soon as I turned the A/C off the idle stayed at 750. It did that multiple times for me...

I replaced the VVT and was very hopeful because in a couple hours of driving the idle only dropped once. But after a few weeks it has gone back to where it was before with the frequency. It is really odd that it changed for awhile. On the plus side, modern motor oils are amazing, I've never...

I bought a set of the factory plugs, which seems to have been a waste because they have the NGK number right on them. I have the intake gaskets so if I can psych myself up for it I may pull the intake. It has thrown the code for the dirty intake valves before but running the cans of cleaner...

It is fairly recent, about 2 years old.

The poor idle started before the change. A passenger actually commented that it was running noticeably smoother right after the change but it didn't last. I've got a set of the NGK Iridium's I'll swap in. The purge solenoid made no change so after the plugs the only thing I can think of is...

I have now done: Both 02 sensors, the MAF (with IAT temp sensor) and the MAP sensor. It seems to do the low idle less now. Before, once it started idling at 500 it wouldn't go back until it had sat for quite some time. I changed the MAP sensor after driving for a couple hours and then...

I figured the sprays are only cleaning enough of the buildup on the valves to keep it from getting error codes so a full cleaning would be a good idea. Spraying the valve cleaner in before the TB has it looking really spotless but a MAF sensor cleaning is a good idea.

My 2013 CX-5 has about 340,000 miles on it. In the last few months I've noticed a tendency for it to drop to around 500 RPM when stopped in gear and the a/c off. When it does that, I can feel vibration from the engine. If I give it just a tiny bit of gas to bring it back up to to 600ish...

CX-5 year? 2013 CX-5 miles? 301,000 CX-5 issues till date? hood glue recall, programming recall CX-5 maintenance? [Self/Dealer/Independent] Self Comments doesn't burn any oil, feels solid everywhere. Anyone else top 300,000?

excellent idea. I'll check all the connections and clean the grounds. I pulled and reinserted all the relays in the fuse box. All the connections on those were clean.

Hi, I have a 2012 Mazda3 with the 2.5l engine. We were driving along for about 15 minutes and the interior light suddenly turned on and then faded out like it does when you shut off the car and get out. About 10 minutes later we slowed down in traffic to nearly a stop and as we accelerated...

Over a period of about two months my 2013 CX-5 has had the check engine light come on but not had any codes stored twice. The light stays on until I disconnect the battery. I didn't know it was possible for it to light without a code. Has anyone else run into this?

For any later generations that stumble on this thread: The key is to not try to take short cuts. Remove the light completely from the car and then put the longer 'L' shaped bracket on with it slid into the appropriate slot on the tail light (a slot that is nearly impossible to see with it in...

I first changed the fluid in mine at about 20,000 miles due to issues with really hard shifts (and was chastised online for doing it). It immediately improved the shifting. Over the years since then I've done a double drain and fill about 4 more times. I use an extractor pump that sucks the...

That was the 'good' photo out of the bunch. It is hard to get at an angle that shows inside with enough light but doesn't wash everything out. The important part in the picture is the inside the opening where the plastic bracket ends short of the metal hatch skin. I'm hoping someone that has...