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I've read both sides: working the fuel back and forth the length of the car heats it up on its own vs staying in the (relatively) cool tank. I should probably do some data logging on that, but, meh. Either works. The NA miatas are a return style (which is what mine is currently), the NBs are...

That's one thing I'm kinda half looking forward to and half dreading, is ripping out the fuel system and installing a returnless, 100% push loc AN -6 system for E85. Should be a fun project, but also one of those projects that will inevitably make me tear my hair out.

No. https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=648997

Have you met Mahk? This was as predictable as sunrise! (rlaugh)

The most important part of my next project has arrived (rlaugh) Also this week, I kinda have the 'bookends' for the new motor in.

Yeah me too. When, after replacing the OCV (which *was* bad, just not the cause of the issue, obviously haha) and the CAS and it was still doing it, I was trying to think of reasons adding air hurt it. Well obviously because there isn't enough fuel. Well why isn't there enough fuel? *shrug*...

Good news, my car's running! Bad news, it wasn't the OCV (well...something's wrong with that OCV) or CAS. It turns out the tank was f**kin empty, and cars need fuel. Some times even I am astonished at the magnitude of my genius! Oh a hunch, I threw a half gallon in and it fried right up and...

I spent some of the afternoon doing something I've never had to do (and something probably unnecessary, but, you know, while you're in there...) and designed a fuel system from more or less scratch. Still retaining the stock sender unit and tank, but everything from the pump forward will be new...

Oh that's right! I was about to ask "what's next" and totally forgot you had the ND waiting in the wings :D

It might not be running at this moment, but parts are coming in :D Shiny!

I guess 'ignition' is the wrong word. "Timing" seems to be the thing. If the intake cam isn't where it's supposed to be, OR the spark is going off at the wrong time because the sensor's bad or the reluctor ring's shifted on the cam, it could have these symptoms.

(rlaugh) you know, I did think of you when I WAS checking the fusebox. Thankfully the 5 or 6 fuses in mine are a lot easier to check. But yeah, they're good. And since it does actually crank and run, I know it's getting fuel AND spark, but something with the ignition is not right. Since the OCV...

Today I found out that the world's most reliable race car has decided it no longer wants to run. It'll crank and start, but it runs like garbage and if you give it ANY throttle it immediately dies. I think we've got it diagnosed to the VVT Oil Control Valve or Cam Angle Sensor. The OCV is making...

You rang? Honestly I've not been doing a whole lot with my car this year. I'm planning on running 1, maybe 2 events in my car, helping a bunch of folks with their cars and driving, and spending a LOT of time learning how to run the boys' Kart. The last event for the car as it currently sits...

DUDE! That's awesome! It's SUCH a fun event.

Turns out, baby bear fits JUUUSSST right :D I need a shorter stool. But it's at the full pull on the lift, sitting on the highest stop. I could put stands under the tires then put extensions on the pads to get it up 3 or 6" higher, but this'll be PLENTY useful :D Lots of clearance to all...

Yeah. Not really usefully (unless I need to do some light suspension work, I suppose, which might happen actually), but this is a far more useful application. Still can't get full height because of the garage door w/ the Subie, but it's way up there :D

Things I learned today: 1. The Armada will fit into the workshop. Just. 2. The lift will get the tires of the Armada off the ground and not collapse in on itself. It's rated to 6000 lbs, the Armada is just under 6000 lb curb weight, so if it'll do this with the arms just about fully extended...

If that's the case, it means the expense and effort (because it's been a LOT of work to get set up properly) was worth it. Sort of like a welder. That was much less of both effort and expense (not that it was cheap)... all I had to do there was learn how to install a 240v circuit and wire it in...

Turns out the concrete is basically the best part of the shop. The spec on the lift is 4" minimum thickness. Min thickness on my pad was 4.5" at the edges, 5.5 towards the middle, with steel wire reinforcement and hard pack underneath with no voids. We were very pleasantly surprised to find...