Search results

Just posted - I had gone with KONI, in fact my mechanic gladly took back my KYB and I lost just 1/3rd the price since it was so new. Replaced with KONI and its light and day difference when it comes to city /rural roads with potholes and bumps. Cornering, handling - all improved. And I just did...

After so many years my 2016 CX-5 struts got bad - really bad and I opted for KYB struts from Rockauto. Installed them around 8 weeks ago and found they are quite the same as OEM when OEM stuts were in good shape. Basically, nothing to write home about. For those wondering - why not a kit, with...

If 2017 and beyond: TEIN EnduraPro Plus Adjustable Shocks / Struts (Full Set) for Import at PRO Import Tuners If pre 2017: KONI Special Active

Factory lasted 8 to 9 yrs. Probably less, since my clunky stabilizer links hit the issue. I'd say $70 + $70 and $200 labor (that's what mechanic quoted me) and if lasts 4 yrs, I'll still be okay.

Amazon has it = the whole shebang....

3 days worth of PB Blaster and Benzomatic, etc. was used to release few bolts on my 2016 Mazda 3 weeks ago. Met a guy who works in Newark Airport and he suggested I instead try Kroil Original Penetrating Oil Boy oh boy - this thing really works. My passenger side was worse and I was putting...

Yeah I get it. But lowest I found was $250 a pop. Dealer price was + $310 here. Sorry - but can't simply afford that much. Delphi was $70. I checked around - folks said very decent quality.

2016 2.5 GT AWD - confirmed control arm bushings - gone. The OEM control arms (front - left/right) are just too expensive. Any thoughts on Delphi? Delphi TC7800 Delphi TC7801

Yes. Just got back from dealership. The tech confirmed likewise.

Exact same as OP described. Fixed by replacing the stabilizer links. Clunk remained and then replaced the bushings too. Went away. An auto body shop told me - always when changing links change the bushings too. Paid labor twice, lesson learned.

1 thing: thank you all! Really. For I was planning to replace my struts thinking its bad. Now I just saved myself quite a big chunk of $$. I just feel perhaps this exercise should be done by all who change the links. Perhaps not applicable to most but just in case.... I say this since not only...

Please see: Stabilizer links with OEM replaced - but weird now when driving

No - but son uses a software called Grammer called GrammerCheck - which I also use. Pretty good and re-formats too

Oh. All I did was loosen at the top where the links connect and then tighten it back to what somewhere here (in this site) was said : 36 to 40 ft. lb torque. Then repeat at the lower point same thing. Left and right. All the while while the car was in an alignment ramp, all wheels. As was right...

I completed this finally. It was a real b**** to have the car on a ramp and go underneath and do it. Finally was able to. Net result: Noticeable improvement in 2 areas: 1. Steering wheel turning : smoother by a lot. 2. Noticeable feel in driving down the same roads -> bumps, etc. are still...

That is only true if the bar is at its neutral rotational position at ride height. That condition I think here is being assumed, not guaranteed. The sway bar is: Not keyed Not splined Not indexed to the chassis Its neutral position is defined by installation, not design. Even with rubber...

@N7turbo A sway bar system has three variables, not one: Link length (fixed) Control arm position (changes with ride height) Sway bar rotational position in the chassis (not indexed) Even with a fixed-length link: If you connect both ends while the suspension is drooped You define the sway...

Recently got the front axle links replaced consequent to a diagnosed clunking sound. Sound is now gone. 3 weeks driving however distinctly feel the car got worse. Every bump, potholes - everything I am feeling now, while driving. Even the car is rolling more I think. To eliminate few things -...

Very good point and considering you have real experience post change, probably first I'll do the 3 things mechanic recommended I do. He's nice that way. Tells me "don't bother me, unless there's a real issue, save your $" type.

Used to +10 yrs ago. Now - no more.My M+S (Snow peak rated tires) handle North east snow perfectly fine. I think it was last or maybe earlier I posted here even how they managed with +6 inches snow effortlessly. Last year I had an emergency and had to drive at +70 mph thru snow baked roads (not...