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The first one is what a 20” or 21” wheel would look like on your car, and the second is almost as big. Go to Tire Rack and use their wheel visualizer - it only gives side views, but they’re much more representative of actual wheel sizes. Second, a wider tire is going to be the first thing you...

So are you looking for the largest diameter tire you can fit in the wheel well? Or the tallest sidewall that matches OE rolling diameter on a 16” wheel?

The other day you were getting a CX-5?

It’s also an octagon being pressed onto a hex-head screw.

That's why I always keep a top-up quart or jug on hand. I've had one vehicle out of my last seven or so that took an even jug of any volume to fill the crank case.

Has anybody ever seen comparative VOAs between Kirkland and other Warren brands? I've read that Costco goes beyond regular Top Tier standards with their gasoline, and I wonder if KS motor oil would get a better add pack than, say, Meijer oil.

I like to run hypoid gear lube in my crankcase, just to be safe.

I read that, and the only thing that I can think is that those oils give them the best margin when they tabulate your bill.

How much cargo space are you willing to sacrifice?

The thing is, if I go snug plus a quarter turn on installation, I can back it off easily with just bare hands. A few thousand miles later, I can usually get it off by wiping it clean and using textured nitrile gloves, but I still have the wrench or slip-joint pliers handy, just in case.

This. Even when I’m removing a filter that I installed and I know had oil on the gasket and wasn’t over-tightened, it still takes more than I can manage, even after cleaning the filter and wearing a grippy rubber glove.

Slip-joint pliers (like Channel Lock) are a pretty reliable fallback option if you don’t have the correct size of end cap wrench. It’s a little awkward getting them up to the oil filter on a SkyActiv four-cylinder, but I just had to do it two weeks ago, and I managed reasonably well. I endorse...

I’d guess that those rally wheels have something close to zero offset. Once you add an inch and a half for an adapter, your wheels would end up sticking out several inches beyond the fenders. Your suspension’s not going to like that.

There’s a point where I wonder if an OP is just trolling…

Do you know if they clear the caliper without a spacer?

I was a product engineer at a string of Tier 1 suppliers. The job is a lot of data and change management, and serving as a liaison between the (usually OEM) customer and the various internal technical and manufacturing groups. It was interesting work, but it’s pretty rare to keep the right fit...

It’s most likely a company you’ve never heard of, and even if you had, I can all but guarantee you they don’t sell direct to consumers. I used to work for a company called Aludyne - they make all sorts of suspension components. They may very well make the OE control arms for Mazda. I can say for...

I think the term you want is "Tier 1".

Tire Rack is very conservative with their fitments, and they'll sell you wheels as wide as 9.5" for a CX-5. It depends on offset and rim diameter, with smaller wheels being limited to narrower widths. In 17" sizes, the widest wheel they have is only 8".

You only need 100% of your radiator’s heat rejection capacity a very tiny fraction of the time. The rest of the time, the air flow that goes through the radiator is a major contributor to any vehicle’s coefficient of drag. The better job an OEM can do of metering the airflow through the...