Search results

Yep my 2014 has a build date of Jan 2013. I bought it in April 2013. It was basically a mid-year refresh of the 2013 that introduced the 2.5L as the 2013s only had the 2.0L. The years didn't re-align until the Gen 2 released with the 2017.

They would be wise to do so. Good on Subaru.

Yeah I think some of us hoped Mazda would be the one manufacturer to know better but here we are. C'est la vie indeed.

"The past". As defined by who? Literally nobody I have ever talked to says "you know what I wish I had in my car? A giant iPad!" As far as I can tell, the actual consumer doesn't want that. The whole thing runs contrary to why Mazda designed the Commander Knob to begin with. Gen 4, now with a...

Part of my problem is I've probably damaged the housing with all the hits its taken over the years so replacing the whole thing makes sense for me. What aftermarket units did you go with. This is where I am a bit in analysis paralysis. Found plenty that support BSM, integrated turn signal...

Gen 1 version is best version. Change my mind. 😂 I've driven a few Gen 2's (with the 2.5L NA) and compared to my 2014 which is just the 2.5L NA as well, they felt really sluggish to get up and go from a stop. I kinda hated it. Sport mode made it better but the difference was shockingly...

I never did any of that. First oil change was at 5k. Engine seems fine. That said, in the future I would probably follow a similar schedule for the break in period knowing more now than I did back then.

My mistake. I forget there are turbo models these days.

Sounds like California. :ROFLMAO:

Thank you for this. I am gearing up to do my spark plugs again at 150k miles and was looking into a proper 14mm socket. I already got some locking extensions so will forgo the tape job this round hopefully. :ROFLMAO:

I mean it's still a CX-5, not a new model. When the Gen 2's came out their big thing over Gen 1 was the sound dampening and better interior materials, and an updated exterior design / grill.

I'll look more into it with regard to returns. But I'm inclined to think like you do here.

Possible, but when my belt tensioner was leaking, the actual tensioner was covered in a black film and yours appears to be completely fine? That said, I agree mileage is about right for the thing to leak, so seems plausible. If you take it to someone or DIY it, I'd just replace the belt while...

Did they only replace the bushings? Typically its the whole lower control arm in these Mazdas as the bushing and ball joint seem to just be integrated into the arm.

Yep, this is what got me to start doing it...albeit a little late at 71k miles for my first one, but that's when I started getting into DIY and taking a more active interest in learning this stuff. Yeah what good is threatening to sue a manufacturer when your car is dead and done. Better to...

It's not just premium, it's super premium. :cool:😂

The dipstick is under the air box. And you have to read it with the vehicle running and at a certain temperature. Accessing it with the airbox still in place is tricky so I won't say it's "easy", but it is there. You can drain and fill the fluid all you want, the fill port is there, the drain...

I suppose that's something I can look into. Seems could be a crap chute on condition of their units too though?

It'll be super obvious if the bushings look bad. The rubber gets old and tears apart.