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Here's my current. Could probably squeeze some more out of the 5900X if I voltage tuned it again, but I hated doing that and just put it back on PBO + some minor tuning. For the 3080 Ti, the 16277 was stock, and the 17594 was with a 114% power limit, +120 core, +1000 memory overclock. I...

Wow, when my switch went out on my 2014, all I did was go to Med Center Mazda and order the revised part and it fit no problem. It was sort of a pain to do the work myself since you have to tear the center console out, but in the end glad I did the work myself. My car has the gated shifter vs...

If you can take advantage of dealer financing when they run 0% interest or 0.99% interest deals (Mazda did this several years ago), and you can take the cash you would have spent to buy the car in full and instead even just throw it into a 4-5% HYSA or some other better investment avenue like...

Ah OK. I missed that. Thank you for that.

So it sounds like you might have experience with this shop. Not sure how to interpret this. Seems like they want me to put in the order before they'll actually tell me what shipping costs.

Called a few parts departments around the area and provided my VIN. They said the Type 1 model numbers for my 2014 AWD 2.5L Touring.

Yep, can also confirm underfilled ATF and coolant from the factory. I had my oil changed at the dealership for the first few years, so not sure if also underfilled from factory, but I'd guess so. I've had my rear diff oil changed once already so also not sure there.

Huh...,crap like that is why I started just doing my own oil in 2017 (or 2018, I forget).

Looks like I will have an experienced buddy's help on this one, so I think OEM makes sense. I noticed there seems to be a Type 1 and Type 2 strut on some of these parts sites. Does anyone know the difference?

Thanks. I appreciate you posting those links.

That's amazing price wise. Cheapest I found online in the states was $185 each. Do you know by chance how long shipping takes from this site since it looks like it's coming from Japan?

Yeah my sway bar links look bad too, so they are getting replaced at the same time.

I am approaching 136k miles and the car is 11 1/2 years old. Figured didn't hurt.

Brakes Plus wanted $2700 to do both control arms, sway bar links, and struts (and shocks). I don't need shocks. Control arms alone they wanted $1100 for parts + labor. They sure had a markup on the parts. I'm going to buy my own OE parts online and then try again at a buddy's house to see if...

So visually the bushing and the sway bar links need replacing. I'm not getting crazy bouncing around or anything that would indicate strut problems to be honest, but maybe worth looking at after doing the other two fixes first.

Worth it over the Mazda OEM struts if both have to be assembled?