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Been mentioned many times that this is not related to being at operating temp or not. Also, 2 miles is not long enough to reach full operating temp when temps are around and below freezing. Coolant temp might be getting there, but oil temp isn’t.

Manufactures are rating at the flywheel, not the wheels. Power output at the flywheel should be the same in every gear. To get wheel power rating, the vehicle needs to be in whatever gear is 1 to 1 with engine rpm, likely 4th. The CX5 is definitely not putting down 310 lb ft to the wheels.

Most of SGs comments are related to heat soak after repeated WOT runs. That I understand and expect. Even an NA motor starts to loose some power in those conditions. Mazda should tell customers their vehicles don’t perform as advertised in below freezing temps if it’s actually expected. Not...

And some money back for false advertising if they’re not going to improve it. I bought a vehicle with an advertised 310 lbs ft of torque. Nowhere did it say it only makes that power when it’s above freezing. Up to 3 months out of the year for me when the car won’t perform as expected.

If you sit perfectly centered it makes things slightly better. The bolsters are just too firm and too close together.

It’s not the leather. It’s the foam and design of the seat base. I checked or a Signature recently to confirm. Odrapnew- I totally understand walking away because of the seats. I wish I would have noticed they were so bad before buying my GTR. The cold weather power loss is also also a big...

Yup. I was referring to those that have data showing there is no boost. Bringing that to a dealer and asking why.

Anyone with data considering going to a dealer to ask why there is no boost when it’s cold? They can’t just pull the “unable to reproduce” response.

I was thinking humidity could have something to do with it. Hard to say. Thought it could also be due to the sustained highway speeds fully “freezing” the intercooler. When I got back to VT it was dry and 16*F. Before going home we stopped for groceries so the car sat for about 15 minutes.I...

After a 500 mile road trip this weekend, I’ve found this issue can occur when temps are as high as 31*F. Leaving VT, it was 30* and humid but not snowing or raining. After driving at 50-60mph on backroads for ~30 miles,I stopped at an intersection. When I pulled away from the stop sign, there...

I don’t know the details, but an engine block recall sounds pretty serious. Mazda quickly recalled the cylinder deactivation issue. IMO, people need to get over complaining about the Mazda infotainment. It’s intuitive but can be slow. This is a car, not a computer for playing video games.

My hood is littered with small chips. Happens to every car I own. My external blue mica GT-R only has 14k miles. My commute involves getting on the highway after driving though a town with dirt roads. Dirt roads + snow tires + expansion joints in the highway = bad news. I stay way back from...

This is similar to what I’ve been noticing. Except that 3rd still feels weak and 4th is where it comes back. This data just makes this issue even more puzzling. The traction theory makes no sense. Engine protection does, but why only the lower gears??? We need Dave Coleman. I also don’t think...

For those that can consistently replicate this issue, try manual mode and punching it at 2k to about 3k in 1st-4th and see if the pull in 4th is almost “normal” feeling. It was -7*f this morning and I couldn’t even break the front wheels loose in 1st or 2nd on a dirt road. However, 4th seemed...

I really don’t think it is. You can get ito way more trouble at 32*f(hell even warm temps) with wet roads than you can at -5*f and dry roads. It just isn’t logical. It has to be to protect the engine. If it was some advanced safety feature, Mazda would speak to it.

I’m surprised this became a recall and the sticking rear calipers haven’t.

Found something very similar on my wife’s 16 during the fall detail. It was between the windshield and sunroof so I assumed it was a small rock chip that was deep enough to start rusting. Seeing this I’m now wondering if it was a factory defect. I scrapped/sanded and filled with OEM touch up...

But the Cx5 has AWD, so you wouldn’t just be spinning your wheels because it’s that cold. Sure there would be some more initial front wheel spin off the line, but it would still hook up even if all the power was being delivered.

Perhaps I missed something in the post I quoted. What I highlighted in your post was that you said some want all the power even if they can’t effectively use it.

All the power can be effectively used when the temps are ~23*F and below and the roads are dry.