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I had trouble finding that part number so I'm going to write it here for posterity: F003-27-238 / F00327238 (same part used on both sides of the differential). I kept trying to find it in the parts PDF in the axle section and not in the differential section. D'oh!!

I replaced my rear stabilizer (sway) bar bushings today, hoping that would help with my clicking. It didn't improve anything, and based on how good the 20-year-old bushings looked, I'm not surprised. I used OEM part GE4T-28-156 (fit perfectly, was the same part number as the original, and is...

If we're comparing Rock Auto's price of $38 and $41 respectively (plus shipping) for the two brands that I've actually heard of vs. Mazda Swag's genuine OEM part that's made in Japan for $44 (plus shipping)... I mean, that was the easiest decision I've made in years. Go buy the OEM part from...

Installed my new ignition switch this afternoon and thought I'd create a new post. In the YouTube video I watched, the guy used a right-angle screwdriver because he couldn't easily use a regular or stubby screwdriver. However, if you remove the access panel on the left-hand side of the dash...

If your needs are modest, then you don't need a FORScan-capable dongle. I use the free Torque Lite app with my $15 Bluetooth adapter and it works well. That said, a buddy of mine has FORScan and I think he's pleased with it.

I just ordered an ignition switch from MazdaSwag. It wasn't much more than the Standard or Beck/Arnley part on RockAuto. Got $2 off shipping using code "SWAG." If any of you are having trouble visiting mazdas247 using Firefox, it's probably related to Let's Encrypt revoking a bunch of their...

That would probably work, but I would not run the car without a knock sensor for long unless you don't care about harming your engine. Knocking is bad for emissions, but it also causes engine damage.

Above quote excerpted from "What have you done today" mega thread. I put four gallons of 87 octane in my nearly-empty tank today and was able to get the engine to ping audibly, but only just barely. Below is all from memory and may be wrong. I have a few more variables than most of you what...

I don't know how long the OEMs should last, but I think you'll find on this forum that they usually fail before 228k miles (or kms). Since you mentioned how your parts look... After I replaced my original coils (with one Hitachi part and one Autozone generic part, as the two parts stores in my...

If that coil pack is dead and you like your car, consider buying Hitachi. Rock Auto has them for $45 and they last a long time. Years ago, I got a coil pack with a lifetime warranty from Autozone. They certainly honored the warranty, but that coil pack left me stuck in an REI parking lot with...

Easy, I just went to the Mazda dealer and gave them money. :) Each mount was between $100 and $200 apiece if I remember correctly. I didn't want to go aftermarket for the rear because it would be a pain if I had to replace that one again. I didn't want to go aftermarket for the passenger...

Well, that's the weird part. The engine mount on the *passenger* side is supposedly different between the manual and automatic transmissions. Please do search this forum for discussion on that and hopefully others will jump in on this thread. If I recall correctly, most of the Amazon/whatever...

Here's a video I found interesting about the relative quality of coils. The YouTuber equates the ability to take the coils apart to their quality if I remember correctly. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JKaTXc6jwg4 And since no one has said it yet in this thread, if you do buy new coils for a...

If beyond the transmission your P5 is in otherwise good shape, it makes sense to convert it from an automatic to manual. I enjoy driving my P5 more than my ND Miata, and that's down to the manual transmission. You'll need a new ECU or a re-flash of your current ECU as you already probably know...