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Things that may help: Receipts showing you changed the oil 40+ times (every 6 months) Receipts showing you regularly changed the transmission fluid at recommended interval Receipts showing you recently changed the timing belt and waterpump Receipts showing the coolant and brake fluid was...

Because it is automatic the "performance" people who would generally pay decent money for a decent manual rust free and accident free protege are not really interested. Since it's a 21 year old car with a check engine light on the casual consumer may have some doubts especially if there is any...

A decent set of 17" performance tires + install/balance probably not far off the cost of your JDM engine. I miss the days when people here were worried about running 250+whp on stock motors. Now people can't even drive down a road in 5th without ******* up their car? Gunked up oil rings lol...

Must be nice. Mine ran like absolute s*** sometimes during startup. I'm also in Canada so maybe the cold weather had something to do with it. I would not do it again without the EGR. But hey that's just what I experienced if you got it idling nice regardless of cold or warm starts on stock ECU...

For $150 with the correct EGR tube that's a different story. Don't F around with deleting EGR it is waste of time IMO and car runs like s*** without it on stock ECU I tried all sorts of things and it never worked right with EGR delete what a waste of time it was to make the car run like s***.

Don't forget the MSP axles if you can get them cheap with the MSP engine/Transmission they are larger compared to normal manual protege axles. Make sure you put in new axle seals as they are cheap and easy to change while everything is out of the car. If it were me I would be doing new exhaust...

If you keep your goals modest and run 9 to 10ish psi on the stock MSP turbo, ECU with the SSAFC (tune it yourself using a wide wideband of sensor and windows laptop), an eBay FMIC setup and 3" exhaust you should be making at least 200+whp which is quite a kick in the pants compared to a stock...

Not interested in reading 29 pages of ish but will say it is Pretty easy to buy a cheap boost gauge and monitor how much boost is being run yourself at any time. Will also say that If your engine isn't warmed up the last thing you would want to do is beat on it whether turbocharged or not. Oil...

I also do not know of any flip of the switch tuners available that work with the stock ECU. Even the SS AFC would require loading a map via USB cable from your windows laptop. There used to be a unichip option that worked with the stock ECU and had an A and B map but they were not cheap and...

Well step 1 is figure out what you have before you blow up your car Step 2 is start reading books on how to tune and modify engine management systems until you know what you are doing BEFORE screwing around with things or you will blow up your car If you are using the mazdaspeed ECU keep the...

What ems are you using? SSAFC or stand alone? Make a joke map with a bunch of stupid values into high vac cells during higher rpm that you will only see during decel. Don't know why you would want people to think you can't tune a car properly but hey if that's what floats your boat and gets you...

Think about how long it would take and how many miles of cruising in 5th it is going to take just to recoupe the expense of the swap. Odds are you are already at high mileage and not going to keep the car for many years. I kept mine for over 10 years and can't imagine I spent more than a tank of...

Well I will state one fact. There is no chance in hell any of your 2.5T are running as rich as a Mazdaspeed Protege FSDET was from the factory and people who do not beat the s*** out of them have gotten 200,000+km out of a much cheaper and much more poorly designed engine. Sure it wasn't DISI...

After reading the thread and seeing people trying to determine exact amounts and percentages.. I think things are a bit more complicated Some ideas to think about. From what I understand gasoline is lighter than oil and would sit at the top of the oil in the pan. The drain is at the bottom...

If you have the patience and time to keep receipts of OEM filter purchases and write down the mileage on them then keep in a file folder you have good evidence when selling the car that you properly maintained the vehicle. Down the line when you are selling the car you will have a better chance...

I do not have experience with cx5 but will say The tire compound plays a large role in how well they work. Many tires are designed with long life and fuel efficiency in mind so although the have lots of tread depth that doesn't really help when starting off, especially when turning at the same...

When you compression test are you removing the spark plugs from the other cylinders kot being tested? You should be. The car needs air fuel and spark to start. Verify if you have compression and spark. If you do then: Don't do this or any work on fuel system anywhere you cannot afford to...

I believe he is referring to hydraulic lifter assembly. I do not have any experience with the 6 and Im not going to use up my data plan watching your video but One thing I can tell you is that from my experiences my cell phone camera picks up very loud lifter/valvetrain noises on any engine...

Same procedure on any vehicle with a limited slip differential powering the front wheels or in RWD applications the rear wheels. Mazdaspeed Protege guys are familiar with this routine. Not sure if the CX ever came with an LSD but the procedure is not unheard of for many vehicles.

car-part.com or check the local yards. Odds are you can get an entire engine that doesn't smoke for less than what muscle car owners pay for a set of good tires if there is a wreckers near you that has one.