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I was looking at the local walmart recently. THey had the new type of Valvoline RESTORE for about $30, and Pennzoil Platinum for about $26, but not the Ultra Platinum. I think they had the more premium Mobil 1 (EP). The Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is 'rated' for more miles, but has the same GF-6...

Are you talking about the thing that keeps the door from opening too far? There are some links to online manuals on this forum that could help for removing the door panel, which is about the same as most other cars but of course you might need Mazda/Toyota sized plastic push pins to replace the...

I tried a jug of some 0W-40 'Euro" type Valvoline. I didn't have any problems.

The control module might.

So this kind of tool can be used for the infamous rear brake EPB motor?

The Mazda manual specs 41psi for full load vs 33 psi rear (w 17"); 36psi vs 42psi(w 19"). The US spec doesn't give the higher number which should be safer with a heavier load, at least according to this "tread act". The US spec also doesn't show any difference between the front and rear...

In my manual it has a different specification for the tires when fully loaded (vs 3 people) FOR CX-5 IN MEXICO, ie, 4 lbs added to the rear with 2lbs added to the front 19" wheels (or 5 psi added to the front and 8 psi for the rear for the 17" wheels). So a difference of 2-3psi between front...

A mazda sedan maybe, but I read this on reddit : "the Owner’s Manual, almost 50/50, front 2,304 lbs and rear 2,348 lbs. Gross weight. I don’t know Curb, I think total curb is like 3,800 lbs" So this might be why the manual specifies the same inflation for the front as the rear. The windows and...

Maybe the throwout bearing or the clutch plate.?

Might be the BCM.

They are several different brands of that kind of stuff, some with quite a bit of asphalt, others just rubber-type (and additives). They have Gorrilla brand, FLEX-SEAL, a brand for RVs, etc. Amazon has a bunch of that stuff, too.

I usually let the oil drain quite a long time, and by the time I get around to removing the filter it has cooled off, which might make it easier to remove.

Maybe a piece of sandpaper would help, although I haven't had any trouble other than when I did the first oil change and had to remove the factory installed filter.

I can't imagine the cabin filter causing a problem. Do you live where there is a corrosive atmosphere, or near the ocean? Maybe that could do something, but it seems there are more than one bad motor in inventory.

I've heard the oil temperature can continue to rise for several hours, but after 4-5 hours it should stabilize.

A little hard to understand, I'm glad that a 5 qt jug seems to be close enough, which is very convenient.

I bought some Quaker State High MIleage Full Synthetic on sale at Walmart for $20+, but they also had some Pennzoil "FULL SYNTHETIC" . They don't mention on the bottle if the lower priced FULL SYNTHETIC is also produced from natural gas. I prefer the Pennzoil for my Mazda, but I buy whatever...

All of those other codes, Cylinder 3, ECM, ABS, cruise control, etc., make this sound like one of those 'bad battery' issues. How old is the battery?

I think the coolant they supplied at the factory was sub-par, with less anti-corrosion additives than necessary.

What year is the CX5? repairing might be possible but replacing might be easier, and if you need new calipers anyway that's the way I might go.