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its the ECU my friend.. we've all gone through this exact problem :P

if youve just gotten the car an know nothing about it.. theres a documented problem on almost every mazdaspeed protege with fuel cut/hesitation; look into getting one of a few options: ECU Flash, Piggyback module for ECU, or new standalone engine management system.. good luck, we're...

I went to the dealer. I bought their factory shop manual from them. it took about 2 days to get because its all on the computer and some lady printed out all 800 something pages (front and back) and I barely fit them into 2x 4" binders.. cost a few hundred if I recall correctly.. lol.. it...

i thought i needed the long harness for connecting but cr3 has both the long and short available for purchase; does the short lead work??

ugh I want the 1000.. lol, just wondering if the 500 will be sufficient but I don't think itll do what I want

So I've been running my ss af/tc for the first bit with my car but now after going to the extremes with my modifications I need to step up to either the sprint 500 or the sport 1000.. but I'm not 100% on my decision between the two.. What would be the need for going to the 1000 over the 500...

So I've already gone to 440's and a Warlbro fuel pump.. how big can my injectors get before having to go to next size up fuel pump?? Will the 255lph warlbro supply enough for 600's? I suspect it won't come close to the 850's eh?

do both. no question about detrimental.. only detrimental to the pocketbook if you know what I mean :P honestly you don't NEED the +1mm, you just need a really good valve job done by someone who knows heads. do a competition 3-angle job on em and you wont be disappointed $$

you don't have to remove the housing, just loosen the bolts and rotate it.

valves and springs can be purchased from *************. If you get the dual valve springs though, be aware that your original retainers must be machined in order to fit the smaller diameter interior spring (or you can buy new retainers) very good upgrade to get what about camshafts? you...

So,... Where the F have all the exterior components gone at both ProtegeGarage and SU.. they used to have things like the grill.. lip.. hoods.. fenders.. wtf where are they? anyone got another link to find things like these?? Thanks!

the dual valve springs do not fit with stock retainers. the replacement retainers allow the ability for fitting inside the dual springs since there are two springs, inside diameter is smaller.. if you keep stocks.. youll have to have them machined. i went with the dual valve springs and was...

best way to go is w/o using sleeves to be honest.. especially if youre going to boost hard.. maximum allowed bore i know/heard of is .040 over on these blocks but really if your just looking for it to be nice and perfect.. .020 is all you really need :P + sleeves cost more to bore to/fit +...

personally, (have a 3076r) i had to fabricate a NEW bracket, + CUT my WGA rod and make it SHORTER, THEN i had to take an edge off one side if the WGA itself just because it practically sat on my turbo compressor housing.. can take a pic if need be.. but, keep in mind my exhaust...

the gears can/will be machined with a slit through the middle, generally a worm gear not a straight gear,.. worms have alternating/moving constant contact with gear/gear as where vertical/straight gears actually CREATE contact between each other from tooth to tooth and creates a...

that ring gear can still be cut off.. the welding was only on the rivets/between the housing. certainly looks like my 03.5 diff did when i took it out.. being said. most upgraded differentials DO NOT come with ring gear. you must cut/drill out rivets and remove original ring gear in order...

the turbo on the car is plenty capable of blowing the engine up AS IS!!!!!!!!! the stock turbo has FANTASTIC spool speed and will easily give you 12-15psi WITH APPROPRIATE ACCOMMODATING MODIFICATIONS!! being said.. first things you should be looking at are: boost gauge to know your psi...

simply put, that diff has been out before and worked on.. originally there was no weld where there obviously is now (hope you can spot the welds?!@) that was the weak point, the diff can/will shear THERE between the housing/main gear. welding only makes THAT diff as strong as possible but...

so about to buy my haltech and looking at the 1000 vs the 500, think ive basicly decided on the 1000 but does anybody know exactly what harness is needed when ordering?? is there a mazda-specific harness? does short harness work or long harness required?? any help/input greatly...

Up for sale is SS AF/TC that I am looking to get rid of and step up to Haltec! Unit works great and comes with all original long lead wires, data-logging wires, installation / run CD + the data-cables (unit wire + crossover to USB for ease of use!) I am looking for only a cool 450$US (shipping...