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Last weekend I finally ground the struts some for more camber... Sitting about 2.5 deg now. I also swapped the stock intake back on to monitor IATs vs the DDMWorks setup. The DDMWorks is better after you get moving, but heat soaks kind of quickly if sitting a awhile, but also drops in...

Howdy! Make sure to check out and join the M2O Mazda2 Owners group on Facebook... It's a good bit more active than these forums, I post most everything I do here as well, but there's extra stuff on the FB page and its usually delayed before updates get posted here. Any plans to autocross or...

Its spec'd for 5w30 and 5w40 in other countries, you'll be fine. If you want to nerd out, check out www.bobistheoilguy.com and start with Motor Oil 101. My UOAs show no problems with 0W20 in autocross + DD conditions so I have no need to switch. May try a 0W30 for an upcoming track event...

Thanks for bumping the thread... I bought a power bleeder and cap #1108 is the one that fits. Yep. A GM cap adapter. (hand) I'm going off of my Amazon order history, I'll double check next time I'm at my parents' house where my tools are at to be 100% sure and edit if needed.

The letter O is never used for a VIN, just zeros FWIW. I had issues originally. Went with Dynotronics to get it sorted out after repeated issues.

Thanks! Haha. It certainly feels faster than stock. I think 88-92 is typically what you'd expect stock. I was mostly focusing on suspension setup this year, over the winter I may try to spend some dyno time($$) playing with intake changes and hopefully get Joe to do tuning remotely while I'm...

Sorry I didn't reply sooner, but yes. 205 RE71Rs. The Tidewater Sports Car Club hosted their annual Dyno Day and Club Picnic today... :lol:

Here's a photo sequence taken by Maureen Scully of me murdering some cones... I only walked the course once and turned in on the wrong cone toward the finish on my first run... Oops :p

My replies in red. FWIW playing around with spring rates and sway bars on my own build, I've basically found that adding rear spring rate alone obviously makes the rear end come around more overall... and adding more rear sway bar changes how abruptly or the severity at which it comes around...

www.ddmworks.com I run their rear torsion beam. Its a bit stiffer than CS, and made of steel(not aluminum which cracks). Its not as stiff as the RB bar. I don't run a front sway bar at all so no comment there. I may try welding tabs on the lower control arm to run the stock bar, at a lower...

Well we had our 5th points event yesterday... I was pretty happy with how I did, though of course I could have done better. Easily left 0.5sec out on course. I WOULD show you but my Gopro decided to be a little b**** and all the files are corrupted (hand) I actually had some direct...

And here was Brendan's fastest run: We have an event coming up on July 17th, so I'm planning on adding some more camber before then(maybe bump up to about 2.6-2.7 deg) and I may bring my DDMWorks sway bar(heaviest one I have currently) to see how it works out. At ACU-4 I'm getting some...

Been slacking on posting updates in a timely manner (whistle) We finally had a dry event at ACU-4 a few weeks ago. The car did REALLY well, and there's definitely room for improvement still. The setup was 700/700 with the light control arm sway bar out back. Started with 33/38psi, ran my...

Google "optimajim + sorry" for some interesting reading. This thread is particularly entertaining. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/electrical-wiring/913442-batteries-optima-alternatives.html In a nutshell: they're garbage and no longer as good as they used to be. I prefer stuff by East...

They probably over torqued it(causing the threads to gall), or there was some junk on the threads(take a lug nut off, and knock it on a hard clean surface... Metal dust will come out) that they didn't clean up before reinstalling. If you can't thread it down by hand you really need to clean it...

Basically. I just eyeball it to make sure they weren't dropped and the gap closed before installing.

Run as-is

Impossible to put air in the brakes from bleeding the clutch. The reservoir has chambers that separate all the circuits slightly should one lose all fluid.

So I've finally got around to bolting on Jeff's old ghetto fabulous "light" rear sway bar. Its basically just a lower control arm from the rear of a Tahoe. Its the EXACT width needed to bolt right into the existing inner holes of the beam. It's like it's meant to be. It has stiff rubber bushings...

I've experienced nothing like that. The rotors don't seem to be worn much at all. The edge where the pad doesn't touch isn't a big enough difference to catch a fingernail on yet. After talking with others the horrid dust is most likely resins from the pad burning off then when wet, bonding to...