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yeah same here on all my cars. Integra, Miata, Corolla, all had door cards pulled multiple times and never broke any clips. My Integra's door cards have been off DOZENS of times over the past 22 years.

fairly common to use a heat/UV blocking film on windshields in the more "sunny" states, which usually lets nearly all visible light through. So it doesn't really look tinted at all. Florida, southwestern states and so on.

guess you haven't been around too many Miatas, which commonly need coolant hose replacement after 20+ years. All the OEM coolant hoses are still available, and many places even sell complete kits with all the hoses included. I did all mine when I had the engine out recently, and some of them...

why would she care about a random badge stuck behind the infotainment screen?

Mazda lower quality than a Stellantis/FCA product?? Surely you jest!

cars with the auto stop-start systems use a different type of starting system that's made to handle repeated engine stops and starts. It's not just the normal little solenoid-based starting system that has been used in cars for decades.

we don't go off road or deal with snow either. The issue is the poor design of the mats that let a TON of debris get under them, which then gets ground into the carpet, and it's a pain to vaccum it all out. If it weren't for the potential wearing/holes issue, I think it would be easier to...

man you shouldn't have gone with WeatherTech. Other brands have much better designed and better fitting all weather floor liners than WT. I hate the WT's in our car.

I was getting 14 to 20 ppm on iron for as long as I've been getting the oil tested. 25 this last time which they said was likely due to the coolant not lubricating bearings as well as oil does.

Unfortunately my last report showed higher potassium than yours ever got (in the 400's), but sodium never got as high as yours. My iron levels have been running higher than yours since I started getting reports in 2019, but that's likely from excessive idling time from my wife sitting in the...

I used to run MaxLife 5-30 in my first car, an 89 Camry, before getting my Integra in 2001. May have run it for a short time in that car also, but then soon after switched to Mobil1 full synthetic 0w-30 for that car in the early-mid 2000's. Been using that ever since. Also run it in my 2000...

lucky, I barely squeaked out 29 on our recent trip, but that was with a bike rack on the back, and driving on 2-lane state highways with 55 MPH speed limit. At 70 it was more like 26. Lately for around-town driving we're lucky to get 23 or 24. It really does seem awful for a modern I4 vehicle.

@Chocolate maybe you should edit the OP to include a list of parts/links at the very top of the thread, so that people don't have to scroll through the whole thing to find what's been posted. Currently using the NKG plugs, INA tensioner, and the OEM oil control valve from partsouq in our CX5.

Totally unnecessary unless the hoses are showing actual signs of deterioration, i.e. leaking, cracking, hardened rubber, etc. Hoses typically need replacement with time, not necessarily a certain number of miles. That's why recreational type cars that might be older but with low miles, like...

We vacationed last year in the Smoky Mountains with some very steep, narrow winding roads to get to our cabin. I found manual mode to be quite helpful for both going up and coming back down the mountain. When going up I found the Skyactiv 6 speed would often try to upshift too early, then...

to those scoffing at the $3K charge just to determine the issue, this is why. Something like 7 or 8 carts and tables full of parts just to get the head gasket off of a 2.5T Skyactiv https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YJMWvyDP3j8

Think I'll switch to Mobil1 0w-30 after my next fill of Mazda Moly oil. Then all 3 of my cars will be using the same oil, so I'll only need to keep one oil type on hand for top-ups.

just know that you'll only be changing about half, maybe a little less, of the fluid. So you'll still have at least 50% of the old fluid in there. You really need to drain and fill it 3 times (12 quarts should do it) to get most of the old fluid out. If you drop the pan on the 3rd drain...

common best practice for any bolt hole near RTV is to run a tap or thread chaser through it to ensure no dried RTV is in there, especially important for blind holes. I know the Miata service manual has diagrams specifically warning about this issue. CX5 one probably has something similar.

I personally would (and did) drop the pan and change the filter also. I had never done it before, and never resealed any type of oil pan with RTV before (I'm used to ones with gaskets). But I used Mazda OEM sealant (it's really the exact same as Permatex Ultra Grey), and got it done no...