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I appreciate that, that was my philosophy when I purchased my ‘13 CX-5 Sport. I made a few small upgrades over the years like some cheap but vastly better speakers off Amazon. It was perfect for getting from point A to point B. I splurged on the ‘23 T though. At minimum I wanted the turbo and...

Went from a ‘13 CX-5 Sport 2 liter that was totaled to my ‘23 CX-5 Turbo. It’s fantastic. Only drawback is average 25 mpg (30-40 miles a day round trip, over a mile uphill for 1000 ft elevation change is what is hurting mileage a bit), but she hauls ass and is a blast to drive.

The ice did suck this year I have to admit. Only takes an inch or two of snow to shut everything down which wouldn’t be a problem with three peak tires. But holy crap the inch or two of ice we got about six weeks ago was ridiculous. Stuck on our mountain for about 4 days!

Are the tires still stock from the factory? Just a guess on the subpar AWD observation. Haven’t read many complaints on the AWD performance here. My ‘23 auto high beam works better than my ‘21 RAV4, so just a heads up if you shop Toyota.

I can’t wait until the stock tires are due for replacement on my ‘23 T. I wouldn’t recommend snow tires purely for icy roads (they are snow tires, not ice tires after all lol!), but I chose to drive my ‘21 RAV4 Hybrid with Michelin Cross Climate2’s down our mountain this week in lieu of the...

agreed, it’s likely that switch. I accidentally put my 2013 in park once with my phone facing out from the cubby. It put just enough rearward pressure on the shifter knob to turn the car off but keep accessories on. Car didn’t think it was in park. Yanked my phone out of the way and all was...

Welcome, can’t wait for you to get your Turbo! Check out this thread if you haven’t yet, good info there: Skyactiv Transmission Fluid Analysis Thread 10k is a bit short for me

The turbo 2.5L was introduced in the CX-5 very recently in the 2019 model year. A cars.com search nationwide for the CX-5 yields only 2 Signature trim vehicles for sale with more than 100k miles. Couple Grand Touring Reserves north of 100k miles but I don’t think those particular ones had a...

Nah, you’re on the right path. They’ll usually include a UV sealant to keep it from yellowing after the polishing process.

Yeah, I mean that there’s no direction from the manufacturer of the gasket to add anything to it. If you add RTV to the gasket I figure you might as well have gone with just RTV. People will add tacky material to the gasket just to hold it in place during the install, but I don’t think you have...

I recommend just the gasket as I haven’t seen manufacturer recommendations to apply anything extra. A cursory search online also yields many posts and arguments in favor of “clean and dry” preventing many issues folks bring cars into shops for (leaks, debris in transmission).

No matter what, I’d scrape the old residue off the pan and the transmission housing. I’d do only RTV or only a “rubber” gasket. If a “rubber” gasket; apply clean and dry. You want a nice clean surface between the pan and transmission whether or not you’re using a preformed vs RTV gasket.

$12.60 a piece with shipping.

Partsouq, ships very quickly from the UAE. I ordered 12 a couple of months ago.

First oil change and tire rotation! 5k miles. I used Castrol Edge 5w-30 and a Tokyo Roki filter. I’m happy to report the factory still employs gorillas to install the oil filters. I haven’t checked the tire pressure since I bought the car and surprise surprise, the pre delivery instructions...

No difference for me. 2000 miles on 93 vs 2000 miles on 87 and tank averages were 25-26 mpg regardless of octane. US driver, majority of gas was Marathon, 10% ethanol content same gas station.

No harm in doing it all the same day as long as they’re cycling the fluid between drain and fills (idle and cycle through the gears, or drive it around the block). Dont want to keep draining the new fluid added and replacing it each time. This is how the latest gen Toyota RAV4 manual recommends...

I wish I could find just the connector for you. Mazda engineers have a bill of material for this wire harness and would know exactly what connector you require. That would be your lowest cost solution: get your hands on just the connector and attach it to your damaged harness. Next cheapest bet...

Should be able to. Thats the first thing I’d try is repairing existing harness with a new connector (if wire crimps can’t be redone in existing connector).

Here is the best description I could find from an official source. The vehicle controls front and rear power delivery. It can’t send power directly to say the front left or rear right tire. The engine can only supply torque to the front and/or rear wheels. Mazda simulates specific power delivery...