Search results

Yep, I have procured some used RX-8 wheels which I'll be refinishing and mounting up with some wider rubber and I think I'll be all done.

Yeah I am still holding out judgement on if the camber links were necessary but even if the back doesn't 'settle' anymore, I can think of some reasoning why you might want them. With 30% stiffer springs you would presumably not be rolling as much in corners so the optimal camber would be...

How come the only person in the world who actually wants a plastic cap (me) didn't get one? (ughdance)

If by "chip" you mean a 1"x3"x6" brick of metal chock full of circuitry and with a pigtail of about 30 wires coming out then yes. The unichip is a piggyback controller but it works in offsets and it works crappily. They came and went on Subarus 5 years ago with all the major companies trying...

get up behind the rotor where the cooling vent inlet is and hit the junction of the rotor and hub with PB. If you can't see behind, you can just shoot a bunch of PB down one of the vents at the top edge of the rotor and it will find its way down. Also, spray PB into the holes that the wheel...

It is generally considered good forum etiquette if, when making photoshop requests, you at least provide all the source material... so you know... some pics of a black mica MS3.

What size RE01R's did you go with? Edit- nevermind... see it in your signature: 225/40ZR18

FYI: this is my ONLY modification so far aside from brighter highbeams bulbs. I chose to go this way instead of swaybars because I felt the pitching was too dramatic to be left alone and springs would solve both the pitching problem and also reduce roll. The stock swaybars are also already...

Part Number: GRMS-8M-L25 Includes: -Front and Rear Springs with a claimed lowering of 15mm front and rear and a springrate of a claimed 30% higher than stock, making it 244f/222r. -Mazdaspeed Camber Kit (about 3mm shorter bolt-center than the stock camber arms) -Install instructions...

I left them in at full length. I have a pretty good feel for detecting excess bumpstop contact so I can trim them a bit if needed but I just really can justify removing them completely for now.

I just received the Mazdaspeed Sport Spring kit (GRMS-8M-L25) and in reading through the directions, it says to remove the bumpstop from the upper strut and keep it safe for when the vehicle is returned to stock. It does not mention replacing it with anything. Just curious what the opinion on...

it sounds exactly like this: pling!

^^^ Curious for a better explanation as well. I don't see any proof anywhere that the stock bypass valves are leaking other than very iffy claims that "it pulls harder". What I DO see a lot of is people experimenting with different springs and shims to fix surge, etc and lots of threads about...

When I change my oil, I not only write down the service info in the little booklet in the owner's manual, but also enter the info on mymazda.com and also take a photo of the receipt from the parts store where I purchased the oil with my odometer in the picture with it. This way I have proof that...

What makes you think your stock bypass valve was leaking? Has anybody done any dyno testing with these to prove they make a difference?

Not sure how much it'll reduce the noise but that would be a benefit for me too. I had my whoosh noise with the subarus I owned and can do without it now.

Topping out a short climb at Great Falls Nat'l Park: Not Topping out a long climb at Mount Rainier Nat'l Park: Carving Twisties my Mazda 4 days after I got it:

ok i looked around a few more places and it seems the centerbore is 67.1mm.

Jim?

bmw sedans have strut front suspensions.