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You should change the oil approximately every 5k miles, or once a year. Making sure all of the important fluids are present, including air in the tires, can take you quite a ways. Do you know much about the history of the car, how it was used and maintained? There was a period when Mazda was...

You have quite a distance to cover before you reach 120K km

Who changed the battery recently? I didn't lose the radio stations on mine when I changed the battery. I believe I had to have the driver side door window 're-learn' the 'auto- up/down' function. At the time my DRL lighting was set to 'auto-on'-- the factory default, so I don't know about...

The mounts certainly could be different but the strut cartridge might be interchangeable.

, , I'm not so sure I'd consider my Skyactive completely 'clean-running,;'. It seems like they have a fair amount of soot in the oil for the miles... possibly because they are direct-injected. Subarus and Mazdas both are said to have higher oil pressures in normal operation. Maybe that's why...

It looks like your decision is all about the numbers now... how much do you have in it? how much to fix? how much to replace? how much inconvenience can you tolerate? etc. Would the dealer make you a good deal on a trade?

I think there was an STB for the 2016 EPB calipers. I had to clean and relube mine (the guide pins) and haven't had any more problems. If yours are at least wearing evenly that's a good sign, but the blinking lights could be the warning of something actually failing. I guess you could remove...

I've read you can remove deposits on the rotors with abrasives, like steel wool, maybe sandpaper. I think the deposits occur because of hard stopping, especially with new pads.

"Underneath the bonnet, the all-new CX-5 is powered by a 2.5-litre e-Skyactiv G 141ps petrol engine, paired with 24V Mazda M Hybrid technology with a brake-by-wire system, replacing the previous 2.0-litre base unit. This engine delivers confident performance with improved torque for quicker...

You might need some new calipers. There were some service bulletins regarding problems with the rear calipers. https://mazdas247.com/forum/t/removing-cx-5-brake-maintenance-mode.123882545/ https://mazdas247.com/forum/t/epb-hassle-2016-cx-5.123882444/...

Service mode is very important when replacing the rear pads. Apparently pretty tricky considering how many people end screwing up the calipers when they fail to do the procedure properly.

Are you sure the ebrake is releasing the left and right sides equally? Are the disc pads ok?

I think many of the CX-5 competitors have increased in size over the years... Rav4, CR-V, etc.

I would guess that it could be cheaper to produce a car with a touch screen rather than discreet buttons and knobs.

Ask your mechanic for a scan tool that can display live MPH from the ECU. If the ECU sees speed but the cluster doesn’t, it’s a cluster issue. If no speed shows at all, it’s VSS or wiring. The Chat GPT is impressive. I know I would check while driving with a OBCII "Scangauge' or "Ultragauge'...

I've noticed that my title for the CX-5 lists it as a 5-door wagon. They like to keep things simple, I guess, so maybe they don't have a classification for it.

I would guess some kind of bad connection that opens because of heat but I have no idea where to look. If you don't want to take it to a dealer I wonder if it would be a good idea to call one and ask about it.

I had a vehicle that dripped something green from the compressor during a very cold spell and it had lost the charge. I believe it needed new o-rings on some of the connections.

That connector is for the heater core, isn't it? The green stuff looks like hardened coolant, which is green. Why it is coming out like that is a mystery.

Use a 'T'?