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Very early 2013 Sport FWD model here (manufactured summer 2012). At 100k miles rear driver side got oil over it. 2000 miles later and I can feel it. About to be replaced. First 60k miles of the vehicle had heavy weight on the rear. All paved but bumpy midwest roads.

I am the opposite and I think a lot of smart people are like that out there. If VW produces a reliable car (ideally made in Japan :) ), I don't mind buying one. That will obviously not happen any time soon.

I don't know man, I've been hearing, watchig, reading everywhere that the Atlas has lower maintenance cost than Highlander. Who should I trust - you or the countless commercials :D

I am happy there are more folks thinking this way. With every generation almost every manufacturer increases dimensions. But my garage stays the same size since the 80s.

That's what I am hoping for, but with optional tiny 3rd row.

I put a single din radio, small Clarion amp behind it, interface box for the steering wheel volume buttons and android tablet in front of the stereo the first year I got my 2013 model. It is a sport model, so didn't really had any options in the stereo. System still works great up to date, kind...

We are in need of compact [emergency] 3-row, Kia Sorento size (189" long, 76" wide). Any clues that CX-50 will offer that in USA?

I already replaced the trans oil. Are the belt tensioners common failures?

Master ~ $65, Slave ~$50 + Tax. Bleeding for both brakes and clutch was done with my wife pumping the pedals while I open/close the bleeders. No issues there. I doubt that I will be doing the clutch swap my self and the "cheap" shop quoted $1300-1400. I am hoping it will last me 3 more years...

Problem solved but first let me clarify what exactly was feeling like after my muscle memory was adjusted - the top of the pedal was very soft; the clutch grabbing point wasn't really that low to the floor as I stated first. It was actually somewhat inconsistent - sometimes low but sometimes...

Which part would be the "Stud" in this illustration?

Did you guys ever figure this out?

Did you flush thru the brake calipers only or did you do the flush at the clutch slave as well?

Not sure what you are talking about here. May be you misread "grabbing" for "grinding". No noise or slipping in my case.

Thanks guys. I have not changed the brake fluid but it sounds like I should do it together with the master and slave cylinders change. Opening the service manual now to check complexity level (I have changed a master on Civic before).

This is a good idea. I noticed the mechanic filled up the break fluid to the top. They probably tested it the system under pressure. If there was a leak, a I should start seeing the fluid drop, right? On the other hand, I am realizing today it is not just a soft pedal but the functuanal range...

That is why I am questioning the diagnosis. I don't see any leaks yet. It is drive-ble but drastic difference from the night before. Could it be that they designed it such way so it warns you before the end of life?

Definitely will get second opinion, may be even 3rd. I have trust issues with mechanics. I had a Civic Si and was told by 2 independent mechanics that the transmission is gone (gears grinding when shifting). End up replacing the transmission oil (it was low) and drove it (hard) for another 50k...

I found the clutch pedal soft in the morning, especially the first half (increased free play, with grip very close to the floor). Basically same symptoms as @timberstx said in this thread. Symptoms of my CMC going bad was too much pedal free play. And I only had to lift...