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I agree with that, although my Explorer has done it since new (bought new >10 years ago). I've done a few drain/fills with transmission fluid over the years, but still acts the same. It was one of the first things that bugged me about the vehicle. If I got on the freeway going 60mph and just...

While not Mazda CX5's, both my Fords do similar. It's a nice feature. I use them if I want to prepare to accelerate quickly or jump up to next gear. Also, with the Fords, if you downshift and stay off the throttle, it'll hold that gear until it gets too low in rpm or you use the throttle, then...

Another possibility is misfire. My wife's old 09 CX9 had a shudder at highway speeds under load. Only seemed to happen when the torque converter was locked up, so I thought it was for sure the torque converter slipping. I was able to monitor misfires and found that the shudder would cause...

My $0.02. You ask 10 different people, you'll get 11 different answers on this subject. I think it's a good idea to do the first oil change a little earlier. No matter how well the engine is cleaned and assembled, there will always be extra 'wear' early in the engine life. Parts mating...

I'll discount that 'master tech' because he says to change the engine air filter every year to protect the MAF. Changing the filter too often will actually contaminate the MAF sooner since a new/clean filter lets ore dust through than a dirty one, at least for OE style replacements. A new...

Correction, it's more resistant to detonation. I think that's what you meant, just said it wrong. Depending on the vehicle, some can take advantage of the extra octane. Turbo/supercharged engines seem to be more common to improve performance with higher octane, naturally aspirated not as much...

I'm 80% sure those are not helicoils. To me they look like stripped threads. I've seen similar coils when doing torque-to-failures tests for mounting brackets. I'd say the previous person over torqued and/or cross threaded them.

I'm sure it does go negative, but the gauge might not be sensitive enough to measure. Also, the position of the gauge is important. Putting it in a 'dead space' area of the intake will give false readings. Ideally the gauge would be at the turbo inlet as that would be the furthest from all the...

I'd be interested to see 0-60 and quarter mile time comparison. Considering stock is about 300ftlb at 2000rpm, I have no confidence in those 'dyno' graphs. What are those graphs showing, 180ftlb torque at 2000rpm? The torque curve is not representative of a stock or stock-ish 2.5T.

I think a turbo engine would be less susceptible to a restricted element than naturally aspirated. Assuming the turbo is not undersized from the start, if you have a little more restriction from the intake, the turbo could spin a bit harder (or wastegate blow off less) and maintain same air...

Depends on how perfect you want it. You could bend it back yourself and touch it up, but it probably won't look great. Better than leaving as-is though. I'm sure a good body shop could get that looking new in exchange for $.

Hopefully the Mazda service center is not at the dealer selling the vehicle.

Keep us posted on the results and if you have info on what the dealer did to fix it.

Good test. Also shows how relatively little restriction there is in the element itself compared to the full system.

If the inlet is designed well, downstream static pressure and 'true' pressure drop should be the same. Regarding the 25" restriction, I meant that as final value, which would be about 10" above what you have with a clean element. 10" rise is fairly typical for recommended filter change. Also...

FYI that doesn't measure pressure drop, it measures static restriction (reference to atmosphere) Also, depending on where you place the gauge can affect the reading as well. But, use of a restriction gauge is very smart, you don't have to guess if it's dirty or not. Check the gauge every once...

I'm guessing the new speedo is just the face cover that can be swapped out. And I agree with youri that it looks like they found a cheap aftermarket MPH one to replace the factory KPH one.

What we call a 'paper' filter, which is pretty much any factory style air filter, is least efficient at removing dust when it's new. As it gets dirty, that dirt fills in voids/spaces in the filter and while doing so, it will filter more (and smaller) particles. You do get to a point where...

👆 This. I can go into a long spiel about it, but I'll save everyone from falling asleep unless someone is interested.

Money grab, just do it yourself for fraction of the $ and about 5 minutes of your time. But also, as cz5gt said, it really depends on where you live and the environment. Unless you live/drive on dirt roads, I would just go by 30k mile change. Changing filter too often is actually detrimental to...