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Went out this morning to see if unplugging the upstream O2 sensor would change things, no, nothing as it's stuck in open loop fault. However, the idle is a tad rough with mild misfires even around 1000rpms or so but the same codes, P0102 and P0300. ST and LT fuel trims are still reading 0.0...

I think so too, as it drops to about 600 rpm and lower and the idle does get lumpy then, but remains mostly fine down to that low and it can barely keep idle when the tranny is in gear if it doesn't conk out, and this conking out is also when not in gear, more so when not warmed up but still...

It could very well be the IAC, and I did have the P0507, idle higher than expected once. It's not tripped now, just the P0300 and the P0102 codes at the moment. Does the fuel trims not fluctuating have anything to do with the IAC? If not then it's still the O2 sensors. I would not be too...

You aren't going to believe this, no the car still idles like s***. I'm beginning to think the Sea Foam messed with my o2 sensors, the sensor 1 most likely (the one in the exhaust manifold) and see what happens. All this driving has me doing the brake/gas foot dance and at times the...

that is what I'm hoping. The good news is the car's idle is fairly smooth even at 800-900rpm, but it won't hold the idle well still and drops down to 500rpm and then it gets rough, but I suspect that's because it's barely able to idle much at all a that rpm normally anyway - hence our low idle...

Yes as I had to take out the battery while removing and putting back the throttle body, plus do the key on (engine off), key off and then let idle per Mazda as well. I figured as much so will do more driving today as a couple of errands will need to be done later this morning.

OK, just came back in from being at the car. I did the key on, engine off for a minute, then key off for a minute then started the car and let it run for 15 minutes, it ran at high idle (1200 or so) and it did fluctuate a little, then remained steady, ST/LT fuel trims stayed the same. Car could...

Overall, did a relearn via another thread where you turn the key on (engine off) for a minute, then turn key off 1 minute than run the engine and let it idle for 15 minutes. at one point, it looked good until the idle dropped almost to the point of cutting out so I blipped the throttle just...

Jazzysp20, The Launch scanner shows them to be OK, at least earlier today and you are right, the STFT should fluctuate between -3 and +3%, the LTFT should be something near 0.0% if I recall, right? Anyway, will go double check the sensors as it's possible one blew out without me even realizing...

Yeah, I see that, though I never got the IAC out of mine, need to get that impact driver to bang into the head to get it out, it's reefed in bad enough that the vise grips (needle nosed) didn't budge it one bit so left it as is but got the new gasket on the throttle body and stuff plugged back...

Just a quick update. Decided NOT to get the IAC for now and just clean and put back, but did decide to get the coils anyway. I was going to walk up to the parts store but ran into a neighbor just down the street from my house and he had to get the ball joints himself so he can replace them...

As for the JIS standard, wish I knew if Japan has modified their screws now because of this. My theory is since it was ONLY adopted in Japan, but nowhere else, it's been quietly dropped by the Japanese over time. Anyway, as long as it's dry and NOT raining (it was raining late yesterday and...

that's the problem is NO ONE makes an official JIS driver or bit, not even Vessel does anymore even though some advertise it as a JIS bit/driver, it's really a JIS/Phillips bit/driver. I'll look into the impact driver shown at Lowes, at $19.99 US, it's a good price and may have something a bit...

Vise Grips, needle nosed did cross my mind, I have a pair, will give those a try. I can get an impact in there, but the issue is, even with the extension for the bit, it does not go in straight enough to get enough bite to that back screw. the left front I can get, the other 3, not so much. To...

I have decided that if the prices locally aren't too out of whack, to order up the parts for pickup on Friday and install them and hope that will solve all my ills. The new gasket for the throttle body New IAC and its gasket Two new coils, just to be safe and may also go ahead and replace the...

Yeah, I think getting something to bite the screw so it can be removed is best, however, today, my car runs like s***, can't idle at all with the transmission in gear and not always when in neutral either so a bit of a foot and dance to keep from dying and then restart, it does start usually...

I'll probably go the Dremel route as I do have to remove the throttle body to replace the gasket come Friday anyway and that's the easiest way to access that screw. Meanwhile, I can still drive the car the short distance to work until then (less than 10 minutes to and from work). Thanks.

Question, do you know of a way to remove the stubborn and also chowdered JIS screw? Even with the throttle body off, I still could not find a driver to fit snuggly into the stripped out X head on that one screw. I was able to break the others free though without issue. I wonder if it was...

Well, the car starts, runs well, as long as the idle is high but once it gets down around 800-900, it's lumpy idle still. But it runs, accelerates and all that. Put half a can of Seafoam in the tank to see if that helps any. And I just got back from a quick errand and it wants to die when...

I also have the brake cleen and carb cleaner and can try that, once I get the reasonably clean throttle body back in and see how the car runs (or not). :-) But at the very least, it'll be cleaner at worst, it'll make things worse. Then it's the coils as all 4 plugs had not changed and seafoam...