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From the very first post:

Check Engine Light

I saw this on eBay a little while ago and saved it to my wishlist. It's been sold and I haven't seen another one up yet. I was hoping to be the first, but if you beat me to it I won't be mad. That's why I'm willing to share it. ;)...

Check your intake tube, between your mass air flow sensor and your throttle body, for cracks. They're notorious for ripping. The airbox is stationary and the engine shifts slightly when you accelerate, which pulls the tear open and allows unmetered air into the system.

If these questions are all academic, then cool. I'm all for it. But if not, my only response to "Why" is, "Why not?" Dude's doing A, whatever he damn well pleases and what makes him happy; B, something new and advanced and difficult and challenging - and succeeding, it seems; and C, something...

I'm thinking not. AutoZone and Advance both list the same part numbers and 180 temps.

Everything sounds to me like the passenger wheel bearing. I had all the same symptoms, and like you I thought it was the driver side wheel bearing. I don't have the tools to do it myself so I took it to a shop, and when they called me to tell me it was done, they said the driver side one was...

Is there a particular place where it is most beneficial to have the catalytic converter in the exhaust stream? I've been thinking a lot about a 4-2-1 header for a FS 626, and it looks to me as if it would replace *both* cats. Would it do any good at all to put a high-flow cat in right after...

I never leave mine cracked either, but I'm more afraid of someone getting something down to the power lock button and just unlocking them all. The one and only time I ever locked my keys in this car, that's how AAA got it open. They stuck a wedge between the door and the roof, inflated it, got...

Yeah, I have that page. It's the "Remove the rear finisher (See 09-16-3 REAR FINISHER REMOVAL/INSTALLATION)" part that was getting to me. That part says to remove the "rear finisher" you have to take off the inside panel and remove the lock cylinder, then twist out a couple clamps and take out...

Okay, first of all, do I seriously have to take off the entire liftgate interior panel and remove the lock cylinder just to change the stupid license plate lights? And second, are there any bolts or anything holding that panel on, or is it just a pull straight down and pop it loose all the way...

Holy hell... is he running from the cops or something?

Don't forget to check the accordion section of the intake tube near the throttle body, if you have the factory intake system still. They're known for tearing and, as the engine shifts in the bay, letting in a ton of unmetered air (on the other side of the MAF sensor). It's a pretty common...

You might want to find a better way to abbreviate "methanol" or else spell it out. lol

Naa, make about a thousand different "BikingPro5" stickers and stickerbomb it. Then lay out a big stencil of the coolest logo and Plastidip the logo over the stickers. (enguard) (whistle)

lol you're not going anywhere. You might join the 3 board but you'll never leave the P5 board. You don't just up and leave the Familia.

How's about the two clear plastic license plate lights for the p5? What'll it take to get you to ship em to 63301?

Fixed it. Dork. (cabpatch) Is that revenge for my Canada jab in the other thread? lol

Do you have the P5 license plate lights? Definitely want. Price shipped to 63301?