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From what I can tell if you do change it now you may have a shot to save the unit. I believe it leaks from the popper at the top so a pump and fill should keep you going. If you clean it well with brake cleaner after the job you'll know if you were successful. I have a '12 and have taken to...

Glad you are going to the dealer since the garages you used don't seem to have the skills needed to get to the bottom of the issue. A proper scan with the equipment capable of 'speaking' to all the various control modules on the vehicle is called for. Guessing about what it may be and throwing...

Reviving this oldie but goodie. I found the information here very valuable and I just did my 2012 at 68K miles. Fluid looked decent, but glad I did the drain and fill. Mine took 3 quarts and 20 ounces and I did the drain, measure and fill method. My car is a NorthEast car so the fill plug...

Based on my experience with my transfer case at 40K miles on the original factory fill that is the unit I'd do sooner than the transmission and differential. I changed mine out then and it was a mess. Did it again just now at 60K and it was much better. Drained well and wasn't a stinking...

I'd say be careful with what you buy. I just changed both on my 2012 CX9, purchased from Advance. They listed Wagner on the site but the right front they gave me a CarQuest unit. It was perfect and bolted right up. The right side was a Wagner unit and the bracket it came with had a different...

As I recall the parts mentioned come standard on the Grand Touring (I think) model. If you have a local pick-and-pull yard you may be able to find the parts there from a rear-ended vehicle. I expect that since they are just mostly mechanical parts they should be fairly easy to swap. However...

Just FYI. Keep a very close eye on it if you are still under warranty. If you detect even the slightest hint of a drop in the level that's a problem. If you have a problem, even a minor one, get it on the record while it's still covered. Vehicles should not use any antifreeze in normal use...

Did you see this thread to see if there is any relationship to your situation? Seems like a very similar issue... https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/index.php?threads/2016-gt-coolant-leak-rear-of-engine.123868682/

I have to say that the story that shop is selling sounds like complete nonsense. I would promptly get the vehicle out of there and to a reputable shop that will pinpoint the leak and give you a rational estimate of the needed repairs.

There is a recall for the issue you are experiencing. I cannot recall the site but if you do a search there should be a Mazda site to check your VIN. I'm almost sure your year is covered and if the condition you have meets the criteria the dealership should take care of it for you. There is a...

Do you have the ability to read the codes for the vehicle? It will help determine the issue much easier than taking guesses.

Thank you for sharing the outcome. I'm sure this will help others down the road.

You would think so. However, given that the wiring is still attached and the internals of that part look OK it could be giving a false signal to the controller? I don't know if that depends on a 'tone ring' or magnet inside the diff to work. Anyway, if the dealer checks it out under warranty...

Based on the look of the internals it looks like an inductor pickup of some sort. I strongly suspect that it's part of the controller for the AWD system that sits on the rear differential. I have an older model and have seen some write-ups on a similar part that resides in that general area.

Whatever that is it is broken off it's original location. There is still the harness connector attached to it and it clearly has signs of being broken. It's hard to tell from the image but it appears to be in the area of the rear differential. Do you have warning lights on the dash related to...

If it's free then why not. Personally I think it's way too early for an initial change, 3,000 to 5,000 miles would be more appropriate in my opinion. This may be the dealerships way of getting you in the habit of bringing the car to the for maintenance.

Two things come to mind and forgive me if you have already been over these items. First, has the entire system been bled properly, preferably with a pressure bleeder. Second, have you inspected the brake lines, particularly the rubber lines at the wheels. If those parts get weak they can...

If you suspect that it's a mineral stain and not something 'on' the paint you could try to soak a paper towel in white vinegar and lay it over the stains. Soak it occasionally and let it sit there for 30 minutes or better. If it is a mineral stain this should dissolve it.

Does the vehicle store any codes? That's the first step in determining what may be going on. The dealership should be able to check for more codes that may be available from a generic scan tool. I would certainly bring it in and open a record of the complaint and get it 'on the record'.

I have done both the vacuum method and the pressure bleeder. I found that either worked just fine as long as the feed of fresh fluid to the master was consistent. The vacuum system that I used came with a large bottle with a tapered fixed spout that you filled with fluid and placed upside down...