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It's not worth it even if it's free. Nav systems are a hold over and will eventually die like TomTom and Garmin did once smartphones became prevalent. Tech moves on very quickly and even if that was 100% up to date on day one it would be out of date on day two.

If you can re-create the noise on demand then take the mechanic for a ride and make it happen. Then let them fix it.

I don't have my CX-9 handy at the moment but the touring came with several standard features like memory seats, Bose/Nav, auto up/down front windows... etc... There could be a 'build sheet' in the spare tire well that will give you all the factory codes of what's on your particular vehicle. If...

Post something useful or leave troll. And I have done the job already and I was referencing the the top plug, not the under car drain and level set plug

Asked in the other thread but yes I would like to understand how you did that.

Does that OEM dipstick tube replace the fill plug that's there now?

If you are 100% sure the wheels are balanced properly then it could be an axle issue, either the front axles or perhaps the driveshaft to the rear. Did they check for any wear on those components? The wheel bearings should also be checked for any play as well.

It likely is a circulation pump that keeps pumping coolant or oil through the turbo to cool it further after engine shut down. My Audi turbo has this same noise and that's what is happening on that engine. Probably necessary in these smaller displacement turbo engines in more vehicles such as...

Just read the Exclusions on whatever policy they put in front of you. That's where you'll determine if it's worth the money. You'd be amazed at what is excluded in these third party policies.

I am sorry to hear that there will be no help coming from Mazda on this. It does really hit hard when you buy what should be a reliable vehicle and have something like this happen. The only hope is that there will be a class action against them that may lead to some benefit to you down the road...

In my case they are tied in to the existing wiring and dim with the dashboard lighting. I keep them just at about 50% and I find it to be a nice glow without being distracting. I have them installed in such a way as to not have them shining at anything, it's all indirect lighting.

I cannot comment directly on the Mazda as I have not done this update on mine. I do have an Audi and I followed this DIY a while back, I'd say the Mazda would be similar. The main point is the lights used in this video, I think they'd work well in any vehicle. For what it's worth here's the...

Google 'sylvania automotive bulbs' and you'll find the right sizes for the various locations on that site. I did mine some time ago so I cannot recall exactly which one's I used. I'm still glad I made the switch, in spite of how annoying the dimming flicker can be at times.

When the actuators are operating you will see the levers and linkages move. Those parts are external and visible. Keep the fan on low and you may be able to hear them as well. Look at this picture, it's an ebay listing for a Mazda CX9 hvac box. It may not be identical given that it could be...

The actuators have levers that you should be able to see moving if the blend door is working properly. At this point I think that could be your problem but a good scan tool may be needed to check it if you cannot visually see the blend door moving. It may call out the defective part. All the...

Had the same - it's the vehicle not the bulbs. Tried a few and have learned to live with the poor dimming behavior. 2012 model year by the way.

If you have a 'remote thermometer' or thermal image machine you can test the inlet and outlet hoses on the heater core. They should be fairly easy to locate where they pass through the firewall, usually on the passenger side. Those hoses should heat up pretty quickly; and one should be...

If it is coolant temp related I'd suspect the thermostat more than the heater core, unless the coolant looks really dirty. If the coolant looks clean the core likely would not clog but not saying it isn't. To flush the core it should not be too bad if you can locate the inlet and outlet hoses...

I just cannot believe that it's a clogged front heater core on such a new vehicle so I suspect that it's something on the blend door for the heater. Given it's cold in all settings and that the air-flow redirects I think you could rule out issues with directional actuators. If you have...