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I replaced the caliper.

There was a recall years ago about the master cylinder. Mine had the problem so it was covered under the recall. The brake pedal slowly sank to the floor with constant pressure and the brakes were not as responsive as they should have been. After the replacement of the master my left front...

It's very difficult to tell from those pictures what's going on because they are very dark. To find the leak your best bet would be to clean that area with brake clean so you have a clear view as to where it's coming from. Given that it's coming from 'up top' by the looks of it the likely...

I do recall folks just removing the driveshaft to the rear differential and calling it a day. Some have removed the PTU, but if it's not making noise why bother.

You are getting O2 sensor, MAF and EVAP codes but the one it seem you need to dig in to is the p061B as it seems that is the only one you have that is not standard OBD. On the older Ford drive trains that was related to Internal Control Module Torque Calculations. Whatever of the other codes...

How does the vehicle run? If it's running OK I would clear the codes and see if any come back. A low or dead battery can cause all kinds of codes to be set and when remedied a lot do not come back.

A TSB is just a repair guide for the shops to reference, it's not a recall. If you find an issue under warranty they will fix it. Sadly most issues are found long after the warranty period has expired so your on your own. Sometimes a manufacturer will 'good will' some of the cost. Usually only...

All vehicles have their Achilles Heel but the water pump in that vintage of CX-9 is bigger than most in terms of cost of repair. I would skip on it and look for something else.

Do you live in the 'rust belt'? If so, any job on undercarriage parts can be more of a challenge than what you see on YouTube. Take the wheel off and have a look at what you are up against and you can go from there. Also, I would only get aftermarket from an actual store or Rock Auto. The...

I had all 4 sensors replaced on my 2012 recently and the TPMS was acting odd. Going on and off, beeping sometimes and sometimes not. I just tried disconnecting my battery at the negative terminal overnight to hopefully get the system to forget all the settings and start over. Not sure yet if it...

For what it's worth on my 2012 I replaced both arms as they wear over time and can put stress on the lift motor. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H6EX4I2/

It almost looks like some of the clips that hold that rear interior trim in place are not holding. I have no experience removing that part to check behind it but I'd say it needs to be removed and reset into it's proper orientation. That gap is absolutely not normal.

I don't suppose you have a pick and pull yard nearby? Given you know what it take to get to it now that could work. Although they are few and far between these days. Sadly, the only other option may be the dealership but perhaps you can find a discount dealer on-line.

I think your actuator may be stuck in the closed position. Here's a pic of mine with the hatch open and it shows the bottom of the 'U' is open. Perhaps you can manipulate yours to this position and try again. A large screwdriver below that latch, hold the handle open and try to pry it open may...

It's a lot of trim work to get the whole panel off and that may be needed to get the lock mechanism out. However, there is a small cover on the inside just behind the mechanism that you can pop out and perhaps that will give you more insight at to what the issue could be.

Did you check to be sure that nothing has fallen down into the latch area that could be blocking the mechanism from engaging? If that area is clean you may need to remove the hatch cover to get a better look at what is going on with the mechanism.

Those two look perfectly normal for the mileage. Gap is nice and consistent and no signs of any carbon or oil etc... accumulating on them. If there are misfires perhaps it's fuel related. Run a good injector cleaner and use a few tanks of top tier fuel and see how it goes.

At that mileage and price I'd skip the Mazda. Basically it has a Ford engine with a water pump design that will take out the engine if the water pump leaks. It's inside the engine and the leaks go directly into the sump. Coolant mixes with the oil and that's the end of the engine. Also, the if...

This is a perfect reminder of my water pump issue with my Audi. I had to pay the $1,100 to fix it at just over 60K miles and Audi of America refused any help. Not as bad as an engine or replacement of the head but painful none the less considering the mileage. However, it was an easy choice for...