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Dyno fun! <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ON7vae9gKmI?rel=0" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>

I picked up one of those when I got the RX7 running last year. Definitely one of the better investments lately! Do you see a noticeable improvement with the Water Wetter? Opinions are mixed in the rotary community. Many are of the opinion that at least some ethylene glycol is necessary to...

My understanding is the more new stuff you use the more break-in time is needed. For example, had I only replaced the soft seals the break-in cycle would be near non-existent since everything is already "bedded" together. Just run the engine for a couple hours, change the oil and filter, and go...

Changed the steering wheel so the shift lights are no longer being obstructed from view. This one is larger in diameter and has less "dish." Overall it puts the wheel in a more comfortable position and makes turning at low speeds a little easier. The next two tasks are aiming the headlights...

Pictures, as promied. Seat: Brackets: Seat with brackets: Installed:

Man, I thought I replied to this. If I do get on track it'll likely be later in the season. There's still a few things I need to take care of. The transmission and tune are the biggest things. I'll hopefully have the front and rear transmission bearings replaced in the next couple of weeks if my...

I finally dropped the car off to get an alignment at a performance shop up in the city. Oddly, that was probably the most highway miles I've put on the car to date and I'm rethinking my decision to drive it to so shows/events in the near future. I'm seriously curious just how bad the current...

Dead forum is dead. Up to 1500 miles. Finally replaced the water pump and almost had to pull the engine due to a mistake I made in the process. Transmission still makes noise. Still needs an alignment. Got the engine harness cleaned up so I don't have wires spiraling around anymore. Picture:

In hindsight I should have replaced all the bearings while I was in there. I was using the factory service manual as reference during the rebuild and it's not always the most detailed in explaining what needs to be done. The inspection of the clearances on the output shaft is one area that could...

Honestly, I can't remember what bearings I used. At the time I had two N/A RX-7 transmissions and the Miata transmissions in various states of disassembly. I want to say I used everything from the Miata transmission internally, and just used the RX-7 housings. I think my assumption was the Miata...

What's your target idle speed again? My idle vacuum is around -7 psi at 1000-1100 RPM. However, mine will pull more vacuum at slightly higher engine speeds, which is why I've relied on a zero throttle fuel map. My heaviest electronic loads are the electric cooling fan, exterior lights, and cabin...

That's similar to the later models although a little less complex. On the FC I there's still a check valve on the line between the center iron and the charcoal canister that's tee'd into the intake tract after the airflow meter but there's also a "purge control valve." It looks like a check...

What do you have right now - just an open port on the center iron or oil filler tube? I've thought about trying to rig up a PCV system as well, but like you said it would require extra ports separate from the vacuum system. I mainly want to do this so I can reincorporate a charcoal canister into...

Yeah, this is what I was just thinking. I'm tuning by VE with a MAP reference. The Haltech actually can tune by VE with TPS as well but I'm not doing that anymore. If the MAP sensor is getting a signal from both rotors then the FPR and brake booster are a part of that same system even if they...

I too thought that it might be the FPR since there is significantly less in the MAP sensor line. However, the line after the filter is dry so it's definitely coming from the engine side. It's hard to tell but the vacuum lines all have at least a slight upward angle to them. I'm going to mess...

Thanks, the fluorescent lighting makes it appear lighter than it really is. Someone pointed out it looks like Tennessee orange and that's definitely not the case. Temperatures are dropping and that's making it harder to get out and drive the car. Ambient temperatures are in the 40's and I'm...

I mounted my vacuum manifold as high as possible to avoid that. Fuel has to make it through two 90 degree bends to get in there but somehow it still does. The lines going to the FPR, MAP sensor, and brake booster all trend upward so hopefully that'll keep the fuel out as a backup to the filters...

Hmm, not sure how a vacuum leak could cause what I'm getting but I'll take a look. I wonder if you're onto something about the combined ports thing. I have a very similar setup and for some reason my rear rotor seems to be more susceptible to having fuel in its vacuum lines. The line going to my...

Random question: have you noticed any fuel in your vacuum lines? Despite having my vacuum manifold as high as possible, above both the ports on the intake manifold and throttle body, I'm finding fuel in my vacuum lines. I have those little inline air filter things and one of them is pretty...

I think I've hit 6000 RPM once in 1st gear when I wasn't paying attention and I know I've crept slightly above 5000 from time to time. Conventional rotary wisdom appears to indicate 1000 miles for break in, keeping engine speed below 4000 RPM until 500 miles, and then slowly increasing to...