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5 years and you should consider changing it......... That said I usually do a inspection of my pads and slider pins every 2-3 years while rotating my tires. Since the car is lifted doing a brake fluid flush is very easy with a $20 one-man bleeder kit. Makes a noticeable difference in braking...

Option1 : Get a new engine installed. Keep old engine block and convert it into a coffee table! Option 2: Build the engine up yourself. New seals, plugs, belts, ect. This way you know its reliable again. It also maximizes resale value. Used small SUVs are hot right now.

Double check the car battery terminals are not corroded and are secure tight........do you have a varmint problem? They like to eat wires.....this is also a good reason to have a cheap Bluetooth scanner.

I'm happy to report that the Denso Iridium TT (4711) plugs purchased/installed this past weekend is indeed performing well for me in my 2.5l skyactiv Mazda 6. My idle is smooth which is a good indication (wasn't really bad before). That said something felt off but only the first day. Day 1 I...

I found the Gen1 stock Akebono pads/rotors to actually be good. For reference I've experimented on 4 different pads on a Gen1 CX-5. Stock Akebono ceramics: Lasts long, quiet, decent stopping power, less dust due to ceramic. Stoptech 308's: Dirtier than stock, stopped as good or maybe a...

I don't think you trouble shoot the pistons....but rather inspect the rubber piston boots for any rips.

Hard for you to break the AC lines/components. Besides its under warranty. Get it fixed before 36k miles. On another note, you can actually cause harm to the AC system by not using it. Make sure to run it a bit even in the winter. The Freon needs to circulate to help lube the entire system.

I purchased PIAA super Silicone Wiper Blades last year. Made in Japan. High quality. I FINALLY got to test it yesterday during rain. Wow. No streaking, perfect fitment, and I believe you can buy replacement silicone inserts as well.

Good point. Primarily for the Mazda6......My car jack cannot reach the central front jack point. It barely reaches the rear one as well. The Mazda6 is also too low for my ramps. Its gonna be an issue when I lower it on my H&R's I've picked up. My solution for oil changes/brakes, ect. is to jack...

Have both ramps and jack/stands. That said I recommend this little guy Magnetic Jack Pad Jacking Puck Pinch Weld Frame Rail Adapter.

Red and black sill protectors? How about this Red and Black Skyactiv Door Sill Protector?

I the CX-5 I've got cool 5500 ish temperature LEDs. Now in the Mazda6............well I've got stealth mode Red LEDs :). At night in a dark parking lot with red interior LEDs on plus 35% tint you won't notice me in the car. Yet inside I have got enough light to read paperwork and see my rear...

Keep a close eye on it. What you describe is consistent with green coolant coming from the bleeding hole just behind the water pump pulley. The TSB indicates if no accumulation of crystallized coolant residue then you are fine but if there is accumulation of crystallized coolant to replace water...

Yeah don't put DOT 5. Stick to DOT 3 or 4 but not 5 as it's not compatible.

2013 CX-5 is not lit but I checked and forgot 2016 Mazda6 touring is indeed lit. The only time this could be a useful feature is if needing to get paperwork or maybe a map at night. I haven't used a map in years now due to navigation and smart phones. Proof of insurance? On my smart phone. In...

I had a Mits Starion lol. Yes I let it idle a bit before turning off engine.

Did you check near the water pump area for dried green drips? Gotta use a flashlight and really look down there.