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You might also want to know that this engine is designed for torque, low end grunt, and not high end output. The small K04 produces incredibly fast spool up and high torque from 2,500 rpm to 5,500 rpm. But, on stock tune the throttle body starts closing at that point, boost tapers down, and...

Actually, the "smoking turbo" issue is due to an improperly designed crank case ventillation system on gen 1 MS3's. Mazda has a retrofit kit that vents to a different location that relieves the pressure differential. That kit is expensive. There are several work arounds that may work. I've...

The Gen 1 car does have a scoop on its underside directing air from slots in the top of the grill to the top of the intercooler. It also channels air over to the battery area. If the Gen 2 grill does not have slots in that location, the IC will not get cool air, and boost air temperature will...

SU does not enjoy a good reputation with Mazda user groups. If you want to know the reasons, go over to mazdaspeed forums dot org . My sig below once included an SU/SURE rear motor mount. No more. Reasons are over there. There are serious safety issues involved.

What about actual performance? Dyno, AP data logs, Virtual Dyno charts? 60-100 mph per logs? Did I miss Cobb AP or Versatune or Hypertech tuning and upgraded fuel pump internals in your mod spec sheet? Don't tell me you are running that downpipe without upgraded pump and tune, are you...

There was no '06 MS3. What car do you have? US models (MS3 began in '07). If you have a Euro MPS, we may need the number off the turbo to get the correct K04 variant. Are you looking for a direct replacement or somthing with more flow? The latter requires a custom ECU reflash. Cant run a...

Conservative tune? What are your mods? Are you the original owner? I have a theory, but need more information. I recall some posts that you are running HT and an intake. Any other changes? I'm at 126,000 miles on my '08. Original clutch and drivetrain, mods below. No problems. Push the...

Oil change today. The usual Rotella T6 synthetic 5w40. 126,000 miles. Mods in sig.

Still have my '08 MS3 which I bought new in Spring '08. Mods below. It's my daily driver. Uber reliable. 126,000 miles.

I guess it is worth a try for those concerned with it. Look at my mods in sig. I am running a catless 3" dp/rp, CAI, and HT tune and at 125,000 miles have never smoked. I run Shell Rotella T6 5w40 synthetic and have idle rpm at +200. I think raising the idle rpm is helping with any seal...

It would have been easy to do a Mazdaspeed version of the 350 whp AWD Ford Focus RS. And Mazda could have over the reliability issues we see in the Focus lineup. So sad.

I misdescribed the clamp. It is the one on the coupler on the intake side between the MAF sensor and the turbo inlet pipe. That clamp has a screw that is right next to the ECU. If the screw is not oriented away from the ECU and the wiring harness coming out of the bottom of it, when the...

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See my post in your other thread. Check to see if the metal hose clamp screw on your intercooler coupler to the turbo is fraying the wires on your ECU wiring harness. This is a known source of electrical problems.

Check the hose clamp on your intercooler hose where it couples to the turbo. It is very close to the wiring harness on your ECU. There are reports of the clamp screw being oriented too close to that harness and fraying wires causing electrical problems, including the current to the high...

Im asking if you are measuring rail pressure. Not the pressure of the primary pump. What is that description of that field or pid on your scantool? Just wanting to be sure.

I'm assuming you have the turbo engine. How are you measuring fuel pressure? You need a scantool to measure fuel rail pressure via the OBD2 port. There are two pumps. Be sure you are measuring fuel rail pressure, which is post hpfp. You need to know the output from that port. If you can...

Sway bar bushings and end kinks, front and rear, are common "wear" items that need replacement when they get noisy. Good news is that the parts are cheap and easy to replace.

Here is a good thread with an ongoing log by one owner with comments and shared experiences by others. http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123766944-Design-s-Long-Term-Ownership-Build-Thread

Same here. Start with tightening all clamps and checking the lines to and from the electronic boost controller. It has plastic nipples that are easily broken, so be careful. Those lines tend to develop small splits. Those are cheap to replace, so try that before spending money on boost...