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Maaco will paint cars for as low as 300 bucks.. The quality is so-so from what I read, but I've never seen one on person. I'm sure it looks a whole lot better than a 13 year old sun baked neglected paint job though. You can also DIY paint it with rustoleum Google the 50 dollar paint job. I...

CV axle won't cause the tire to rub the strut.. Can cause a vibration though. Get off the forum and go check already.

Unhook them and flip the key on for a second.. The one that spurts fuel is your supply.

The wheel bearing is the only part that can fail and cause the tire to become closer the strut. As for the vibration, wheel bearing can be part of it, could also be from a bad tire or wheel.

Your friend is technically correct, but transmissions haven't used a vacuum modulator since the early 90's. I would suggest you take your car in to a transmission shop for a proper diagnostic. It could be a solenoid hanging up, but it could also be many other things. If you floor it in...

If it starts leaking, it's not repairable. A plug might hold for a while. I'm sure that car has a TPMS, so you will know pretty quickly if it decides to let loose. I'd want the bigger wheels, even if you need to buy a pair of tires.

If it's not leaking, I really wouldn't worry about it. Provided that they don't shake going down the road. The bead would probably never seal if that was really a hole. 205/55-16 will be cheaper than a 215/45-17. I never noticed much of a difference on ride quality between the two.

Nope, it's all there to reduce noise. Regardless of what you read, you can't hydrolock an engine unless you completely submerge the filter. There is a factory scoop that draws cool air from the grille. Removing the silencer will make it pull hot air off the radiator. Not a huge difference...

Make sure your EGR is working too. It lowers combustion temps and reduces preignition. If your fuel injectors were faulty the fuel trims would be out of whack, setting a P0171 or P0172. Unless for some reason the 02 is not reporting correctly.

I believe the can says 1/3 through a vacuum line, 1/3 in the tank, and 1/3 in the crankcase.

They are susceptible to it, even if not affected by the recall.

You are billed for a predetermined amount of time that is deemed adequate for the job by a third party, or flat rate. The shop gets paid the same whether it took them 1 or 6 hours. It can be feast or famine, but timing belt jobs are generally pretty generous provided the tech knows what he is...

I wonder what they took apart to mess up the alignment. Did they take the engine out of the top or bottom? If bottom, the subframe usually won't go back where it was, and an alignment is needed. I can't say I noticed much of a difference with mine, better or worse.

Maybe if the servo was leaking and not allowing them to open all the way, or there is one loose in there that's banging around. There was a recall on the screws.

Wow, that sucks. Makes me glad that my car came with new calipers on the back. After having so many defective ID think a parts store would be happy to order two or three more until you get a good pair.

Shops have a ton of overhead. The tech usually only pockets 30% or less of the hourly rate. The rest goes to rent, utilities, tools, insurance, etc. They aren't making near what you think. It's not uncommon for a shop to have 100,000+ dollars in scan tools, tire machines, lifts etc. As for...

Belts stretch, retarding the cam timing.

Sway bar links and bushings or the control arm/ball joint.

I must have gotten an auto mount when I bought mounts on Amazon. The stem didn't seem pressed in all the way. I was able to install it briefly, but it wasn't right. The mount was stretched so badly it wouldn't have lasted.

Set aside a weekend if you're a DIYer. I spent a day on mine. I also had to swap everything from my old engine to the new long block. I pulled the engine and trans Frome the top. Even a flat rate tech would be cutting it close at 6 hours. Most FWD engine replacements bill for 8-12 hours...