Search results

The catalyst 02 sensor only monitors the pre-cat that's just below the exhaust manifold. Unless you install a header and do away with it, a cat back exhaust will not affect it. The primary cat is not monitored by an 02 sensor and can be swapped with whatever you want.

Tekton makes one that's pretty inexpensive. I did destroy the drive end once, but it's easily rebuildable. It's more for reach than it is for leverage...

The sockets don't break, the drive end just gets peened to the point that they won't go on the socket or ratchet anymore.

Would've destroyed the nut and socket and crushed my hand in the process. I really had to give it a hot supper.

I'm not in the rust belt either, but my axles would not come free when I did my engine swap.. Had to pick up the engine and yank them out of the diff. I was able to get one out when I had to replace the wheel bearing on that side. It took a 5lb drilling hammer to get it out, and the axle was...

That flat area behind the grille is a mighty fine place for storing tools and bolts. I sure wouldn't want to cut it out. I'm always skeptical about these types of mods because they are ripe with expectation bias. I like to believe that if gains were that easy to be had, Mazda's engineers would...

Tint is good, don't slap a bunch of audio stickers on it, and if you have a stereo don't bump it close to home. If you're worried about someone smashing a window, leave it unlocked with nothing valuable inside. Alarms are more of a pain than they're worth unless you want remote start or...

They do. I had to remove and replace the skin on mine when I installed the Katskinz leather. I think it's just velcro on the bottom, but it's been so long I really don't remember that well.

As of now, standalone or piggy back.

17's at around a +40 offset will fit pretty good, with a 205/45 or 215/45 tire. A 7" wide wheel is a good fit. +35 will rub sometimes with a 215 in the back at stock height, but not with a 205.

Provided that it runs and does what it's supposed to, it's a decent deal. A full turbo kit is worth 1000 USD, plus all the other MSP goodies.

There is also an adjuster under the brake lever.

If you pull that rubber boot in the floor up you should be able to unbolt and slide the remainder of the shaft and U-joint off of the steering rack and see what the deal is. If it moved around enough to slide off, you have bigger problems, either the column mounts are broken and moving around...

Those enclosures are made of fiberglass. Not really expensive but it requires a lot of patience and time. You need to line the area with plastic or tin foil, apply resin, then mat, then more resin, then cut out an MDF ring where you want to place the sub, glue the ring in place with dowels...

Mine has always began to engage about 3/4 of the way up, even before I replaced it. Drive it until it starts to slip.

That is the easiest situation to learn in, with ample spare parts and bolts, plus an easy reference point if you forget how something goes together. Unplug everything, pull the harnesses out of the way, remove the axles and shifter linkage, and pull the engine and trans together. You could do...

Sawzall works best for those too.

I don't know if there is a visible marking that indicates an LSD. Best way to check is what I posted above, you only need to raise one wheel.

About the only way it would have an LSD is if the MSP trans was also installed. Jack up one front wheel and try to spin it with the trans in neutral. If it spins freely, open diff. If it doesn't turn at all or there is a lot of resistance, LSD.

If the trans is coming out, slip a sawzall blade between the linkage/yoke and cut the pin. Pound out the remnants while the trans is out, install a new bolt and bushings, and drive on. I'd try slicing the tab and turning the bolt like PCB suggested first though.