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That is what I have always gotten with it, before and after the engine swap.. Mostly 75mph on the highway. Although I switched to synthetic gear oil and I'm pretty sure it gave me 1-2 mpg extra.. I'm at a steady 29 average now. Last tank was 9.9 gallons for 296 miles. We'll see how this one does.

Brake dragging? Low tires? I'm lucky to get 320 miles out of a tank..

I know, you unscrew the bulb receptacles from the light assembly and plug them into your new light. There isn't a plug in the harness.

So it never ran again after the belt broke? Any bent valves should have been evident in the compression test. I'd expect it to be near zero on a cylinder or two, but you never know. If a valve is bent, it won't close all the way, and the lash will be very excessive. If you check all of them...

Turn the connectors on the light assembly 1/4 turn and they come out, bulbs and all. Then stick them into your new light.

Nope. The 2.0 FS was also used on the Protege sedan and 626. Youll want a 2000 up motor. Check www.car-part.com. a JDM engine is also an option.

Constant 12v? Should just be a momentary pulse after you switch the key on. If it's constant, those must not be the right terminal.

I'm not exactly sure which relay the P5 uses, but I'm assuming it's this style, minus one prong. STA and E1 are your coil wires. B and FP are your in and out.

I've seen a disconnected neutral switch cause a Miata to idle and run very strangely. There are also two switches on the clutch. One disengages the Cruise when you depress the clutch, the other prevents the engine from starting with it released. The switches in the transmission are easy to...

Get a test light or multimeter and see if there is power going to the relay coil. If there is, replace relay. The fuel pump will not prime if there is a crank sensor fault too, among other things that can be found in the service manual.

Does the relay click? I believe the contacts under it are known to fail.

So, just to verify, with the balancer mark aligned at TDC compression, both marks on the cam pulleys line up on the inside? Have you verified TDC with a screwdriver? Crank pulleys can slip, rendering the marks useless. What about the cam pulleys? Are the keys still intact and bolts tight?

Absolutely ditch the stock unit. Even a cheap aftermarket will be night and day, although they do not produce what the manufacturers claim. 50 claimed watts from a head unit and 50 actual watts from an amplifier are not equal, the amp will sound better every time. Most headunits have a 15 or 20...

Sounds like it's trying to fire on the compression stroke.

Alright, borrow or make a noid light and see if you have injector pulse, or see if it will start on ether. Check fuel pressure too, just because it is running through the return does not mean there is enough to run the engine. Incorrect cam timing reduces the amount of air that can enter the...

125 is really pretty low. I'd be looking for at least 150, but it should be even higher on a healthy engine. All four being low points to a cam timing issue as being a probable cause.

Crank sensor needs to be plugged in for the pump to prime.. Just in case you have it unplugged. Jumper the fuel pump relay socket and see if you can get it to run.

I second the gunmetal/graphite color. Bead blast them if you have the means. The better you prep the surface, the better your paint will come out. Blasting takes it right down to the alloy. If you want to go with a gloss finish, coat with a self-etching primer and then paint. If you want a...

I would be more comfortable with half a can. It's a solvent and will thin the oil quite a bit.

The engine that piston in the above photo came from passed a compression test with flying colors. Started and ran absolutely perfectly, but was burning a quart of oil in 500 miles.