Search results

Could easily be the clock spring, only way to tell for sure is to inspect it. Do the steering wheel functions all work correctly (cruise, horn, stereo control) ? Call your favorite shop and ask them for a quote, some don't use customer supplied parts so don't buy anything unless they agree to...

Most likely a heat shield on the exhaust. Get under the car and hit your fist against the heat shield sections starting from the exhaust manifold going back. When you hear the familiar rattle, either separate the shield from whatever it's hitting to cause the noise or secure it more with a...

The Eagle rear mount I installed doesn't feel any different from when I first put it in. It's only been 7 months and ~8K miles though.

"I want to work on it before it leaves the wives stranded " Whoa, do they each get their own car at least? haha. Sounds like a weak battery or bad ground wire. Bad starter wouldn't even crank, bad alternator would fail to charge and kill the car while driving. Does it eventually start just...

It will self-adjust to a point. Crank the hand brake up and down a bunch of times (20 - 30) and see if that helps. Other self adjust method is to back up somewhere safe and brake hard (with the pedal). If those 2 methods don't help and it needs more adjusting, there is an adjustment under the...

Yes. Mine's an auto but I don't think it matters.

Make sure your whole family goes to look at the car and sit in it together. The 5 will only seat 6 and the 3rd row is only for kids or very small adults. Also keep in mind that with the 3rd row up the trunk is barely deep enough to fit a gallon of milk. A traditional minivan would be a much...

Is that what that noise is? Good to know. Notice it every time I get out of the car when I park in the garage.

Ford Part# W500545S900 For the mount, I used a knockoff from Amazon. Eagle BHP 4425. The original mount wasn't broken but the eagle mount was noticeably stiffer and got rid of the 'rubberband' feel I was getting while driving.

The only reason Mazda doesn't recommend it in the manual is that the factory fluid will last through the warranty period. As a bonus they can advertise the car as having lower maintenance costs. They don't care if the transmission conks out for the 1st owner at 150K miles or the 2nd owner at...

I use Valvoline Maxlife. It's M5 compatible and you can buy it at any auto parts store, even Walmart or Meijer.

'mazdadude's' explanation is how I've always understood it. When referring to suspension, there's no confusing struts and shocks. If a suspension expert refers to a spring as a shock, they don't know what they're talking about. Sounds like the person that points at a monitor and calls it a CPU.

Whoa, looks like nobody makes an assembly for the 2nd gen 5, only the 1st. I guess the volume wasn't there to justify a new assembly, my mistake. In that case, you're going to have to obtain the strut and mount individually. If you end up DIY, invest in a heavy duty spring compressor, avoid...

Those are both strut only, would require you or your mechanic to disassemble the current assembly to reuse any needed parts like spring/isolator/bump stop and reassemble with your new strut and mount.

Whole assembly can be bought at a lot of places (rockauto, amazon), but you're limited to only the manufactures that offer a whole assembly which looks primarily to be Monroe if you're staying out of the economy brands. Bilstein only sells the struts/shocks separate in which case I'd recommend...

The OEM suspension is really that under-built for the 5. $65 is probably a strut only which would require teardown of the current strut assembly (spring, mount) and reassembly on the new strut. You can buy an entire ready-built assembly for around $120 / side which includes new strut, spring...