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What is the code, then?

OP has not responded to his own thread for 1 month.

I got a small faraday box to store all my fobs. Tested it. With a fob is in it, and I held the box near the door, could not lock or unlock it. $10 on Amazon. Prevent fob battery drain and relay theft.

I used to have a dash cam I bought online. (forgot the brand name) After a while, my GPS started to go wild .... e.g. putting the loc in Pacific Ocean. I traced the problem down to the dash cam, which was interfering with the GPS reception. Be ware of untested electronics devices for EMI. Now...

No problem w/ my '17. No CD (cylinder deactivation), no turbo issues. Only problem I have so far (not fixed yet) is the belt tensioner (leaking oil). Both my '16 Mazda6 and '17 CX5 had/have this issue. My '14 Maza3 has no such issue.

Cannot confirmed for iStop, but my Mazda6 ('16) with iELoop needs to visit dealership on every battery change (4-5 yrs, done twice already). Cost is more than $500 (CA cost). iEloop = AGM battery + SuperCap + re-gen braking + clutch-controlled alternator. All those to save you 1mpg... so Mazda...

I used 91 for a few tanks (mostly 87). Same commute route, same schedule. I only observe 0.1-0.2mpg better MPG with 91 over 87. (with go-with-the-flow kind of driving... mixed highway/city)

It is not resetting the battery per se, it is programming the new battery with the Mazda system. One needs to do this if your Mazda has iStop or iEloop (some '16-17 GT models). You need to get an AGM battery and programming by the dealers... cost? $400-500 in CA.

Hope it works better than Skyactiv-X this time. We have not seen it in US yet. Now, Z is coming... :unsure:

During extreme sold weather, EM wave travels much slow .... ;) Kidding, of course.

I bought a set of illuminated door sills for my '17 CX5. Cost was $250 from Mazdaparts.org. Now? MSRP is around $500. Talk about inflation !!! Same manufacturer from Taiwan. Good quality, but I am not paying that much for another set for my '22 CX5.

> Please post what is your year, mileage and any issues. 2022 pearl white Turbo (model name) 10k No issue. (purchased new during Covid. Paid MSRP for it after hard negotiation.) Love the acceleration over N/A. I mostly use '87 w/o issue.

It is the same as disconnecting the (-) terminal and wait for 20-30 mins and put it back. Your way is faster.

Since we are guessing here.... Could be alternator having a leakage current inside... Try to disconnect it from battery and see if the current draw persists...

Personally (I know some people disagree with me) I would avoid these gimmicks from Mazda. iStop, iEloop, CD (cylinder deactivation), ..... Mazda came up with those to make EPA happy. All these features mandate use AGM battery and also programming by dealer to initiate software. I knew it since...

This is the torque/hp curves for 2.5T on 87 vs 93. No benefit below 4k except for maybe faster response to gas pedal. Sorry. Could not find similar plot for the inline6 Turbo. One can assume.

Part defects or poor assembly?

I agree to most of your points. However, I am not sure about the adjective, "gradual" Gradual Acceleration: Accelerate smoothly and gradually. Avoid hard starts and excessive throttle input I used to own a Prius ('05) Hypermiling was popular among owners.... The consensus was to accelerate...

I think it was popular among European cars.. not sure about now. My '98 540iA had it. My uncle had a Citroen in the late '80s. It actually verbally warned him when a brake light burned out.