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Rear calipers are expensive dealer only items. There are a couple extra steps - to get into and out of maintenance mode. Put parking brake into maintenance mode. Disconnect electrical connection. Do all the typical stuff to remove the caliper and replace. Get out of maintenance mode. Bleed brakes.

Very good. The core plug looks solid - not obviously corrosion that it would leak. And you may be lucky to have a water pump gasket leak that is leaking external. The water pump has 2 rubber o-ring style gaskets and can leak past the first one into a channel that will direct the coolant to the...

I would not swap a 2008 engine into a 2010 model year car. I wish I could tell you specifically what is different but I can’t because I don’t know. What I can tell you is there’s several vin number differences for the 2010 engine choices if you search car dash parts. It is possible that there...

The freeze plug, core plug or expansion plug- whatever you want to call it is replaceable. The plugs can’t be more than a few $ each. The only thing I can think of is that it is impractical for the shop to do the repair because of what they would have to charge. Maybe due to the location the...

I'm very sorry to hear that your transmission failed with such low mileage and at such a crummy time. If you have the energy you might continue to pursue the issue with Mazda even if you have already paid for the replacement. Polite persistence can be very effective. Maintenance is really not...

You see very few complaints about wheel bearings on this forum so I wouldn't worry. FWIW: My wheel bearings are silently spinning after nearly 40K miles. And, I live in a salty winter wonderland 6-7 months each year. Wheel bearings are not effected by pot holes. Usually they fail after many...

Not sure what you are looking for here. The ball joint on the 2014 is made to be pressed out. Especially if your car is a California car with no rust this should be a breeze. You need some decent snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring. Your press and 2 cups of the right size to press and...

What is the practically fail proof cable operated parking brake you speak of? I'm not sure the motor operated parking brake is worth the trade off - but don't think the cable version is a gold standard of perfection. Cable operated parking brakes suck if you live in the rust-belt or own a manual...

^good point. Replacing the caliper will get you back on the road and from a DIY repair perspective an easy repair. I’m guessing you were not planning on spending that much. Either way I’ll be interested to know how you fix this.

Electrically disconnect the EPB motor on the caliper. Remove the EPB motor from the caliper with the 2 (5mm?) hex bolts either side. You then have access to the shaft that is driven by the EPB motor. Now the difficult part: Figure out which way you have to turn the shaft to pull the piston back...

FWIW I like the shops suggestion for a bad hydraulic motor mount. These do fail and can definitely create clunks. And, it is crazy hard to visually inspect motor mounts for damage. Even when removed sometimes they look pretty good and still have enough play to cause some clunks under load and...

FWIW - stop throwing parts at the problem. Clunks are usually metal bouncing on metal - suspects are bushings and demonstrably loose ball joints. Test and continue to drive until you can pinpoint the problem. Super frustrating and irritating? Yes. But not a safety concern. Definitely not worth...

Start at the B control box and follow the wires. That box and everywhere it is tapping into various parts of the factory harness need to be disconnected. I suspect the OBD connector is still open behind "A". A sewing seam ripper can be useful for cutting the tape without damaging the wires...

True for the power wire. You put the red power wire from the trailer light harness into the existing rear junction connector. But all the lights use a scotch lock style connector to tap into the wires. I have nothing against scotch lock connectors for inside wiring but really this is more time...

At least for the 2018 this is the wire to tap for power from the rear auxiliary outlet: And here is the fuse (F3) that protects that circuit.

^Correct the contis are LX25 now. Good review by one of the members here. 2nd hand review of the Nokian Entyre 2.0: Brother-in-law runs these on his Acura TLX with AWD. He is a sales guy and runs these all year in the Chicago area. He gives them great review for quiet and all weather traction...

I think that you should try to get this covered under warranty. Sure brakes are wear items - but this is really early. The dealer is going to have to step up on your behalf or eat the service / parts. How you ask - and possibly making your case with the regional Mazda support may be necessary...

Good question. 30K miles is a bit low even if most of the driving was city with more frequent use of the brakes for stop and go traffic. Do you often use your parking brake? It is possible that it is not releasing completely so causing the early wear. When you have the service done definitely...

^Yes A tire promotion might move my tire replacement up by a few months or get me to try the sale tire if 2 options appear otherwise equal. Price is important, just not the only factor.

Thanks for the update and fix. Doubt this is a common problem when using OEM replacement parts. I have heard that there are techs that will grind the ears of a brake pad to make them fit inside the shims and bracket. But why the ends of the ears and why with OEM pads? I'm sure we will never know...