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Nope. Seals are fine - machine shop has the head right now for disassembly, cleaning, another vacuum check post-cleaning to verify the valves and very light machining. A couple of valves on #2 cyl weren't sealing 100% but all 16 valves are really carboned up. I'm sure they will work much more...

Mostly it's the valves/guides I want cleaned up/checked, which should help things run better once I'm properly consuming gas (only) again. I don't have the time, workspace or equipment immediately available to pull the engine right now plus I need the car on the road asap so I'm going to try...

Oh... and I forgot to mention - I must be pressurizing somehow because this engine, which never leaked a drop of oil previously, and only recently developed a slight seepage from one pan bolt is now leaking from the entire oil pan. I had only driven it for less than a week after the last...

I agree - after a bunch of research and mulling it over. After several quotes of $600 - 850 range I thought I finally found a great deal - $500 w/ 6 months warranty from a 137,000 km car and great compression numbers - 165-170 (although he gave a different set of numbers - higher than spec -...

How much did that set you back and what warranty?

@McGiggles, I already priced out rings from Mazda, but the Lordco guy was saying they would be too hard and better to go with aftermarket options - less problems seating and less break-in period. Thoughts on this?

Thanks @Maxx... I'll keep that in mind.

My gut is to overhaul this engine because in general I know what I have - the car seems to have been looked after. Clutch seems to be in excellent shape and all my engine mounts except the really annoying rear one are new this year. I'm stumped on the lower 10mm nut for the electrical bracket...

Thanks for the thread link - those were great pictures! I just got off the phone with Lordco Machine shop and the fellow I spoke with agrees the oil is most likely burning from the pistons/rings and/or valve guides. Apparently my theory is correct and the valve guides can become unseated/loose...

Yup - I'm convinced. I'm most definitely blocking out the sun - people stare when I drive by and I don't think they're admiring my rooftop accessories and fancy lights.... ;) I've also noticed people stop two car lengths behind too... I did seem to make a minor reduction in consumption/smoke...

Ok... next time, use the rope trick for the crank bolt! Position Cyl #1 @ BDC and rotate the engine backwards for resistance @TDC for breaking the torque, and forwards to re-torque 120 ft/lbs. A 1/2" drive 2' breaker bar (or suitable pipe extension) works best. With the car jacked up enough...

LOL well, if you think you'll be removing/installing the springs again and want to pay for postage (I'm in BC) , you can have my Lisle tool - free. It's not quite as good as the Toyo tool I bought, but does the job without causing pain - it has a built-in magnet to retain the keepers. This...

@Maxx Mazda, as I mentioned I'm not losing any coolant, and neither my oil or coolant are cross-contaminated so I'm not seeing how this could be the problem?

@MrGiggles - do you mean an oil consumption problem you had before you did the JDM swap? Thanks for the thread link - I'm reading through it now. Thought this was priceless: "FYI, it's not uncommon for oil rings to collapse and create the symptoms you're describing. Generally they collapse...

@Taco Cat... I'm using this bluetooth reader, plugged in 24/7 paired with the Torque app (Pro) - need an android device for this setup though. It's highly customizable and awesome for monitoring, testing, checking/testing OBDII codes etc. Is the 757 in your location the Boeing variety? I fly...

Ok - time to isolate the PCV system to see if my condition improves! I installed the new PCV valve and it is already compromised after a couple of drives. When I shake it it sounds full of oil and now fails the blow test. :( And I'm getting occasional random misfire codes - I'm guessing...

Hi Bentaylor, I started a new thread here: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123851021-Possible-for-vacuum-leak-to-cause-engine-oil-to-be-sucked-into-combustion-chamber because I solved most of my initial issues, and am left with the smoke and crazy oil burning. Tomorrow I plan to...

@pcb I'm just quoting straight from the service manual - no air air flow. My new in bag pcv valve from Mazda does not pass air from "B" although there is a brief lag to close the valve - I gave it a good blow, not a slow blow... ;) . Tested a whack of times before installing - it's very...

Quick update - just before heading out I was checking something else in the service manual and I happened to pass by the PCV valve section. As a double check I just re-did the "blow" test and discovered that air is now passing through from the intake side - it didn't do that before and isn't...

Hi everyone, Thank you for your thoughts. Things keep pointing back to the PCV system as an "obvious solution" but if that isn't it I'm stumped. I've been delayed with troubleshooting due to a particularly finicky episode getting the timing belt to line up properly this time around...