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Have a competent shop check the starting/charging system. They can do a deep dive on the components. They should be able to tell you if there's a problem and where it is. I wouldn't start replacing parts until I'm sure what the problem is. May turn out you just need to take it for a longer drive...

If the alternator was bad your battery wouldn't charge and eventually run down. I guess it's possible the alternator could be going bad but that would be one of the last things to check. I'd zero in on the battery, maybe get it load tested. That takes longer than one of the test you would do...

Have you ever replaced the starter or alternator? Even though the battery is new doesn't mean it can't have a weak cell. I had to replace a battery couple months in due to a bad cell. If it continues you might want to get it diagnosed. Could be a warning of things to come. It's been in the mid...

Sounds like normal compressor on/off.

Looks like it's his truck pulling a trailer. The post was just an example to show you you can weigh your car at a weigh station..

You're not going to get the same mpg as the CR-V but you'll enjoy the ride much more. Dumped our CR-V and never looked back.

Use a flashlight and turn the dipstick on it's side. The angle will make it easier to read. I have a 16 and a 19 and have no problem reading the dipstick.

Does the backup camera still work when you put it in reverse?

Probably to protect the engine. In a manual if you drop it into first, say at 15 mph you will get a sudden slow down, possibly causing a rear end collision.

If I remember correctly it's a sealed unit. You have to replace the whole headlight assembly and it's expensive.

Right but more so not having to put up with the aggravation of a CEL or misfire then trying to figure out whats wrong. There's lot of posts on this forum of people using cheap parts and then having problems.

Only if you get them from a reputable dealer. People order them from Amazon and Ebay and end up with some cheap Asian knockoff then the fun begins.

I wouldn't be tossing any plugs in because they're cheap. Mazda engines need specific plugs, best to go with the OEM plugs. I know lots of people here say the NKG's are sthe same as OEM without the Mazda name on them. There's been lots of posts of people buying cheaper plugs and regretting it. I...

Time to hit up the dealer.

Do a search on Mazda Infotainment settlement on this site and externally. See if there's a time/mileage condition. You might be able to get a replacement.

If you had the "ghost touch" Mazda would of replaced the screen for free. Not sure what they would do with a replacment screen. If you have the old screen contact the dealer, make sure it's covered and put the old one back in. If you have the receipts you might be able to get reimbursement.

It should not. That info is written to an E-PROM so it can't be erased. Same as the odometer readings.

A lot of times the dealer will add 3,000 miles onto the sticker. Your maintenance minder was probably set to 5,000 miles which is kinda standard. That's probably why there is a difference. I would not do service at 3,000 miles unless you drive in very severe conditions. My dealer always puts a...

Didn't say mine was a rip off - was referring to the post where the dealer wanted $349.

See my post #9. If it's just a drain/fill then you're getting ripped. If they drop the pan, replace the filter, clean the pan then that's not a bad price.