Thank you for the update. Good luck and keep us posted. The ocv leak fix took about few hours in mine (i had it on the 2018 cx5) but they kept the car for a day for other fixes done at the same time. The OCV is a quick fix.
Came back but they need car overnight. OCV leak is confirmed and would need to be back ordered lol but knock/pop sound needed more time. The advisor did ride with mech so both heard it too.If I recall the gasket is real gasket not rtv (thankfully). and yes the cover is removed
Good to see they figure it out! Here's hoping it stays away (noise).Update: 2/21/23 Picked up my 21 gtr awd and the driver side pop is gone but passenger side is still there . The receipt says: sound was on drivers side but ALL cowl bolts torqued to FACTORY SPECS. I guess it was not torqued to factory specs? Or factory specs is too low thats why its loose again? I didn't remembered hearing it when new. I guess I will tighten up the other side myself according to this photo its only two bolts:
View attachment 317238
For the OCV solenoid back ordered eta ..........JUNE!
Did you figure out what your noise was? I have heard sub frame bolts (19mm and 17mm wrench), and sway bar end link nuts (14mm wrench) loose too. But for most people the cowl bolts is the culpritUpdate: 2/21/23 Picked up my 21 gtr awd and the driver side pop is gone but passenger side is still there . The receipt says: sound was on drivers side but ALL cowl bolts torqued to FACTORY SPECS. I guess it was not torqued to factory specs? Or factory specs is too low thats why its loose again? I didn't remembered hearing it when new. I guess I will tighten up the other side myself according to this photo its only two bolts:
View attachment 317238
For the OCV solenoid back ordered eta ..........JUNE!
Were the ball joints worn out on the end links or were the 14mm nuts loose?. The lower nuts were loose on my cx9. Where they connect to the sway bar. They were tight where they attached to the strut.Sway bar end links made this noise on my cx-5, very easy fix, you can can turn the wheel all the way too the the corner and shake them with you hands if they are loose that's your problem. That was the only problem I had on my 16 GT CX-5.
The ball Joint itself was shot for sure on the passenger side. I replaced both with Mazda branded endlinks it happened at around 115,000 miles, very reliable SUV. I only replaced because of the clunk noise.Were the ball joints worn out on the end links or were the 14mm nuts loose?. The lower nuts were loose on my cx9. Where they connect to the sway bar. They were tight where they attached to the strut.
Took a trip from SF to LA to VEGAS and same noise came back on BOTH sides!Good to see they figure it out! Here's hoping it stays away (noise).
update 5/11/23:Did you figure out what your noise was? I have heard sub frame bolts (19mm and 17mm wrench), and sway bar end link nuts (14mm wrench) loose too. But for most people the cowl bolts is the culprit
Got 22 cx-5 GTR back today.If I recall the gasket is real gasket not rtv (thankfully). and yes the cover is removed
So did replacing both sway bar bushings stop the popping noise?Got 22 cx-5 GTR back today.
- To replace the OCV solenoid they had to replace cylinder head cover and I can see some motor oil around the new RTV sealant (dark gray) along with some spilled green coolant on too of transmission.
- For popping noise 1st time tighten cowl bolts but noise was still there so this time they replaced front stabilizer bar bushings. I do see some oil on the bushing area and the stabilizer bar seemed worked on since it’s wiped clean.
- Also rearview mirror was a little loose so they tightened.
So was it necessary to replace whole cylinder head cover or they just get paid more than just replacing the OCV solenoid?